Just measured mine. 35" bottom with a 13-1/2" x 3/4" tunnel. All I can do is bolt the monster on the back and see what happens.
Just measured mine. 35" bottom with a 13-1/2" x 3/4" tunnel. All I can do is bolt the monster on the back and see what happens.
36" is a very nice width for a SEH. I have never run anything wider and don't have a lot of trouble with ET through the corners. I would not build anything much wider than 36" for a competition SEH/FEH. That is packing a lot of air and can lead to unwanted developments when gusts come around, or entering a corner.
Wider will not be a problem either. John Runne made one 40" wide and loved it ... planned on making the next one even wider. From what I saw of the 40" wide boat it had very good manners; as far as I know it is collecting dust
Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.
I do know of an FE boat that has 42" bottom and it is one of the most stable boats I have seen in the class. If you do build wider bottom 38,40 etc... Then there is nothing saying that you cannot take some lift OUT of it when you build it.
Regards,
Dave Scott
Ottawa, Canada
Need Race Parts - http://stores.ebay.com/Aim-Outboard-Recyclers
www.aimoutboards.com
20-CE DSH
20-CE DMH
Take lift out, lose the Pop out of the corner in my opinion. Just in my opinion I think 36" is fine and wider is not needed in most cases.
Tim, Double up the cross frames in the transom, and the next two or three and your twisting and tweaking problems go away. If possible sandwhich some carbon and glass between them. It makes them unbelivablly strong. A cheaper way than carbon is to use some 5mm or 6mm plywood with the grain going the right way. This adds a lot of strength without adding a ton of weight. I have a Roper Hydro (currently MJR Composites) that is almot 14 years old, and it to this day has not tweaked. I ran that boat a LOT until a few years ago when I built myself a lighter boat. The old girl just gained to much weight over the years to ET out of the corner with me in it. Dad in it brought it back alive and won a race against the top competitors fairly easily.
Just some thoughts in case you decide to modify the hull you found. Yes, the OMC 3 Holers torq worse than almost any Alky, and vibrate....... my gosh, they shake until you hit RPM. I check all the nuts and bolts after every weekend, on the boat and motor. The newer style cranks are a little better than the older for balance, but they still are not good.
973-948-8885
Brent 17W
If you need any help with something, give me a hollar, glad to help out if I can. Good to see ya at the NBRA race earlier this year. Should be fun mixing it up with you this next season.
Are there any special serial number that are the one people want for a Formula E? I'm heading to Apple Valley Marine, this Friday, and would like to dig through a pile of motors, but don't want to dig out junk....
I know it is powerheads only, that are needed, but are there certain years that are in demand???
Nothing special I know of. There are so many of them it is hard to find a bad one. Just get a 70 HP OMC. Call it a JohnRude if you want.
Ron, this is insider information - the best blocks were always kept to build Evinrudes. Why do you think Jimbo was always so fast!!
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