it sounds like it works but you gotta understand how everyone will step back and say wow, sandpaper on a head, yea lol.as long as it works, that's all that matters.
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polock, lol
it sounds like it works but you gotta understand how everyone will step back and say wow, sandpaper on a head, yea lol.as long as it works, that's all that matters.
Head milling
Steve Bennson has done some heads for Formula E motors..He uses your "Good" head, fills in the stock chamber, cuts a new chamber and centers the sparkplug in the head...I think I was told this cost $500 ,don't quote me on that!... He has built "some" of the fastest FE motors in the country
I love the sand paper and 2x4 method Skoontz
I finnish mine on a thick piece of glass and use lapping compound for the final cut.
Jeff 93-C
Do ME A Favor...
Jeff...would you "Walk Us' through the building of your Formula E motor...including all secrets, like serial numbers and such..as I know where tons of three cyclinder stuff is, and reasonable...but don't feel like digging if I don't know what to dig for...seems your KNOW what is needed for Formula E....
good idea
that sounds like a good ide, how do you build a FE motor.
Brutal Methods Work
Being somewhat of a budget racer myself, my dad and I own a drill press and a lot of hand files. We do most of our own work. Boring, no, but porting, surfacing of the heads as some say, and all that. We use some methods that would probably make the high perfomrance builders cringe. But you know what what, money does not always win, sometimes sweat, tears, and a lot of time can overcome money. And the feeling of gratification you can get from it is second to none.
Flywheel Advantages - Lightweight means more acceleration out of the hole, maybe higher RPM in top end if you do other things.
Disadvantage - It will blow apart if you go to far or not enough. It very easily could throw it out of balance and ruin your crank eventually. Anyone who runs these engines in MOD knows they shake badly to begin with. OMC tolerances are not very good. They work great at 5500 RPM redlines in fishing engines, but turning them race RPM's brings out the horrible shaking. I would never use a flywheel lightend that got even close to the magnents. An easier solution would be to rig an ignition that does away with the big flywheel. Stone Racing makes a nice bolt on unit. I have one. They are out west in I think Washington.
So is it worth all the messing around ? It depends on how bad you want to race, and how competitive you really are. All the little things add up to one larger gain..........................
I'll see what I can do
Originally Posted by RonHill
Oh boy, not sure I'm the guy for the job...I just finished my "ROOKIE" season
Like Mr Mason I am somewhat of a budget racer myself( the reason I whent with FE was, to "ME" working for a Rude dealer parts are cheap and the supply of fishing motors seemed pretty good) I did a lot of research on what has worked in the past in FE and made some adjustments to fit my needs and budget. I had very little outside work done. Most of the work was done by me by hand and over a long period of time.
As far as what blocks to look for? from what I can tell, any 49cui omc 3cyl will work. some say the 75 stinger is the ticket, some have sworn the old 65 is best..I started with a stock 70...
Most of the racers/engine builders I talked to were very helpfull when asked
There are many here on this website that have WAY more experiance with building an FE motor than me, hopefully they will speak up
Jeff 93-C
There's a guy in the mid west that drag races jet drive outboards that has used nitrous on a triple, too ... I think his first name is Travis
A turbo is a hard deal on an outboard because you have to have a separate oil sump and pump
Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.
mid west
are you talkin about travis fulton in mid missouri? The motor I'm working on is for a jet drag boat. I'm trying to get about 6k-63k rpm's out of it and not much above that, above about 6200 your impeller starts to spin more water than suck, so above that is just wasted and can even slow you down. As far as his nitrous, never saw it run, theres a guy down here with us that run a merc tripple, 60hp with a jet. The motor runs really good out of the hole, but theres been several non bottled motors beat it past about 500 ft. we race a 1000 to 1200 ft drag. I have the other question on flywheel shaving. Are you all talking about an old 49ci flywheel or a new 56ci flywheel. I'm running a 56ci motor. Thanks yall for the info you guys are helpin me out a lot.
ideas
I got an idea, this could be completley out there and not possible or it could be the next big thing, could be a waste of money, I wanna hear everyones feedback on it. I was thinking about trying to take a 49ci motor, boring it .040 over, shaving the head .100. Putting in port work, finger ports, and drilling the head to put 2 plugs in each hole, and maby a mod 50 front half. basicly just hop up the motor with regular hop ups and exhaust and a dual plugged head. I don't know if a dual plugged head would do anything or just be a waste. let's see.
49.9
I was refering to the smaller cubes. 56CI is not legal for Mod Outboard, even sleeved down to 49.9CI.
Sorry.
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