Need the facts (From the OMC xperts)

**Bill Gohr** · 02-19-2007

That gearcase is not the same as the sterndrive, we never used that one on them, your gearcase is not he same as the 800/V-6 size, it's the same diameter as all the V4's, someone will have to just blend a later nosecone to it, no problem just a little more work.

**Charles Salsman** · 02-19-2007

Skoontz: You mean KR 15 stuff? I tried to bring up the subject about 2nd Effort stuff, and also even mentioned the KR15 specifically, but he changed the subject on me. Its hard to explain, but around here, people are leery of people that they dont know, especially if they're from somewhere else.

Bill: Im not arguing with you, but take a look at this picture & compare with diagram of '76 135, you can see how I made the mistake of assuming that. I had to get a seal kit for the l/u, impeller & they are the same, as well as a lot of other parts. I didnt compare every part, and given that they *look* identical at a glance, I assumed it was.

I still think given the available choices, the nosecone I mentioned may be the closest matchup... Or not, I dont know now!

**tthibodaux** · 02-20-2007

I need a 140 tuner. Also those heads are worth $100 buck to me.

Each of coarse.

Charles, man I would say stop goofin off and spendin money and find yourself a newer style (80 or newer) mid and gearcase. Dime a dozen.

**Bill Gohr** · 02-20-2007

What tuner do you need????

Charles, if those are the pictures you are going buy.......the only part on there that is the same is the pinion nut. the top pic is of a 76' or early production 77' 200 gearcase, not an 800 drive. If you're looking at part numbers, look at the bearing carrier oring, the top one will be a 305123, V6 size, the lower pic will be a 313446, V4 size.

And after thinking about what you said, yes, TODAY the seal kit is the same, we superceded them together, because like in 97' we decided to put all the different size seals and orings in one kit so it's a one size fits all seal kit, that kit will seal a V4, V6, and a V8, all different size everything. THere were like 14 part number seal kits and we condensed it down to one parts number. If I was going to reseal your particular gearcase, I would get the parts seperately. 2)321463 2)321453 1)313446 4)317178 2)311598 1)313754, can't remember the number for the shifter cover gasket.......

**tthibodaux** · 02-20-2007

Bill you know better than I do about the tuner. The new motor is an 89/115 and of coarse I have the big carbs and the port work is taken care of only on the exhaust side. Not messin with intake side to keep from killin the holeshot. I had forgotten you had the heads I need, are you around so I can give you a call?

**Charles Salsman** · 02-20-2007

Thibodaux: So you're saying I can get a 1980 or newer style midsection & gearcase, and bolt my 1976 135 powerhead to it? And sorry I mispelled your name that one time, Thibodeaux is a pretty common name in La.

Bill: The reason it came up about the other gearcases was that I was looking for a nosecone that would fit my 135. Hydromotive makes one called an HC-JE6 that fits the V6 gearcases, and a HC-JE4 to fit the 140 & 115 V4's. Since my 135 has an appearance that more closely resembles the V6 style I posted above, I was thinking that the HC-JE6 might fit better. (I had *assumed* they might be the same housing, but never looked closely enough until last night)

I have already sealed up my gearcase, holds pressure all day, and changed impeller.

$135 for a nosecone is still cheaper and less hassle than finding & adapting a new mid & lower, I would think.

**Skoontz** · 02-20-2007

Charles, I mean parts for an OMC APBA Class A engine. I need driveshaft(s) and a race gearcase. Powerheads are good too. I'll also take any KR-15 parts he has to sell.

**Charles Salsman** · 02-20-2007

You're gonna have to give me parts numbers. Im going back through there Thursday. He was out of breath from the trip to the attic, and his phone was ringing, and had some people drive up, so I paid him for my stuff and went on my way.

He acted awkward when I asked him about the racing stuff, but he didn't say no either. I told him what I was doing with my boat, he showed me an SRX 388884 prop that he said would work well, as well as a room full of other props.

You can PM with part numbers and I will check whatever you want me to check. I may have to leave the list with him.

And I checked about bolting a 135 powerhead to a newer midsection & lower unit, seems that nothing would line up, so I guess that's out.

Thibodaux- Tell me about a leakdown test. Give me a step by step.

**tthibodaux** · 02-21-2007

I would rather use the leak down on an older motor than a commpression test. Keep in mind each cyl. should not have more the 10% loss. 120 lbs. comp. would be considered good in most cases but if a leak down on the same cyl. indicates 20 or 25% excessive wear is a good bet. Scored cyl. stuck rings, ect. Remember when performing the leak down to begin at start of compression (just past ports) and NOT tdc, and be sure the flywheel is locked.