LoveCraft half Transformed into Miss KTdoodle. A story by KT

[MissKTdoodle]

When the wise guy comes out of the woodwork, she typically is getting good grades Tis a good thing!!!!!

....

[Skoontz]

Ok, if you all remember, KT's motor blew up, and, along with all the pieces, i took some pictures of where the water intake tube had a 1/4" dowel rod about a foot long inside.

That was removed....The engined was rebuilt, put back to spec...In the test tank today, at an idle, the motor pumped water well. I did the heat up, cool down process, and short bursts with a test wheel until the rings seated in....

The gear case was submerged so the water pick ups were under the surface. At an idle, and high idle, and through a blast of throttle, the engine squired out the discharge tube very well. After the rings seated, I held on the throttle for longer bursts. Between 5200 and 7400 RPM, the water stopped coming out of the discharge tube. When I idled back down, steam would spray out, then water spatter, then a strong stream of water. Rev the motor up again and hang on, and the same deal would occur.

The water pump is good, no cracks, no broken blades. The tubes, intake and discharge are clear and unobstructed. All gaskets are in the correct position.
I did Epoxy the small hole that sprays water on the seal, which is legal.

There is no thermostat in the housing.

Heres the Q. Does this gear case reply on water pressure from the boat underway, and the water pump to keep filled with water? It's almost as though that little pump cannot push enough water to fill the block and some type of vacuum forms. As soon as the pump slows down enough from the engine RPM, the water starts squirting out again....

Since we have never had the water system right from the day we had this motor, and I don't know what to look for, can anyone tell me what the deal might be?

Thank you!

[one eight-w]

The water pump is worn out and not seating onto the prop shaft. Some splines are catching, but not all. They can be permanently attached to the propshaft. I.E. J.B. Weld. Waterpumps are available form Racing Outboards.

[Skoontz]

Ah, thank you. So, are you saying I should replace the pump to do it the right way, but, if I had to, I can use the JB Weld and this will solve the problem. Or, should I also use the JB Weld with the new pump?

[hagerl8m]

every time we have a gearcase apart we tend to put in a new waterpump and always jb weld it in.

[one eight-w]

I'm with Chris on this. BUT, the propshaft may also need to be replaced.

[Skoontz]

Are there any tolerances you have I can check? The shaft looks pretty good, actually. If it leaks allot is that a sign? Typically, I change gear lube with synthetic Valvoline at each days end, or at the end of a test session. The lube will have small amounts of water in it, not nearly as much as when mono filament fishing line wipes out rear seals.

Or are there going to be obvious wear marks? I did have the gear case apart, simply to check the pump and housing.

I did also have one thought....You got 2) 1/8" holes at the nose feeding water to the pump right? Then you got a 3/8" copper line feeding the block....And, in a test tank, you got stagnant water, no pressure.

Under speed, the water pressure will be in theory, significantly greater shoving more water at the pump. It's kind of like when we installed an irrigation system at this plant.... Good pressure, 160PSI at the POC. 2" mains, and 1.5" latteral lines from the vales to the spray nozzles....Fire it up, and no pressure....Then I dug down further....The water main and meter from the city was a 1" line, far from what one would expect on an industrial connection....So, we had a 1" line feeding a 2" lines...Sort of like trying to fill up the toilet by standing there hanging yer hog....

So, could the water inlet size to water supply pipe also been a factor, or, is the pump/shaft replacement the cure all?

[one eight-w]

Call a professional. Ron Thomas(Milwaukee), Tom Johnston(MI), Ed Runne(PA/NJ). They will be able to give you a tolerance for different points on the shaft. A leaky seal is no good. It's not sealing if it's leaking!

As far as you hog, watch strange brew to see what the McKenzie brothers could do.

I believe your problem is inside your case already. Another easy way to check. Change gearcases and see what happens. A steady constant stream is what you are looking for.

[Skoontz]

Will do! I knew the stream was not normal. We would see anything from that to no water when an impeller blade broke. Time to order a case rebuild kit. I did not take a great deal of concern in the leaky seal, as when I pitted next to Steve Wilde up in Chowchilla, he told me that an inherent problem of the hot rod lower is leaky seal system. He looed at the amount of water and said it should not be a great deal to worry about, yet....

I think it's time to just do it right...So, I'll be calling Ed and ordering some goodies.....

[bill boyes]

One time I had the same problem after a re ringing an OMC. Found a bad head gasket,