LoveCraft half Transformed into Miss KTdoodle. A story by KT

[Skoontz]

Bill:

Thanks for the tip. I did upon further inspection, now that it was explained what to look for, find the drive splines on the water pump wee pretty worn. There was about 1/8-3/16 slop in the shaft. The only way I could see the pump would slip is if they are peeled off. The pump still is in good shape, it appears it is the shaft. I put some JB Weld on it, and after it hardens tomorrow I'll put the test wheel on again, then throw it in the tank. If it works, we are off to Lake Hodges to rattle some windows. If not, I'll yank the head and see what we got....Everything on the motor is new, even the cylinder head, as the detonation kind of de-laminated the old head. It was properly torqued, and CC'ed to spec. It would be odd for the gasket to be bad, but ya never know....More to come!

[MissKTdoodle]

Haven't been on here in the longest time... but I've been pretty busy lately. I just had a minute to sign on and see what was going on. Bakersfield is next weekend. Ahhh, racing season is back... finally. I haven't raced in like six months..? I just need to keep on track and keep those grades up. Hopefully, I will get to goto Europe next year. It sounds pretty dankie. See whoever is coming in Bakersfield :].

[bill boyes]

Bill:

Thanks for the tip. I did upon further inspection, now that it was explained what to look for, find the drive splines on the water pump wee pretty worn. There was about 1/8-3/16 slop in the shaft. The only way I could see the pump would slip is if they are peeled off. The pump still is in good shape, it appears it is the shaft. I put some JB Weld on it, and after it hardens tomorrow I'll put the test wheel on again, then throw it in the tank. If it works, we are off to Lake Hodges to rattle some windows. If not, I'll yank the head and see what we got....Everything on the motor is new, even the cylinder head, as the detonation kind of de-laminated the old head. It was properly torqued, and CC'ed to spec. It would be odd for the gasket to be bad, but ya never know....More to come!

Bill, Check the head. Water in the cylinder = steam out the water outlet. Has happened to me. seems to me either something is amiss between the block and the head. But of course good advice about the water pump and shaft.

[Skoontz]

Bill, Check the head. Water in the cylinder = steam out the water outlet. Has happened to me. seems to me either something is amiss between the block and the head. But of course good advice about the water pump and shaft.

Ok...The JB Weld seemed to help tremendously with the force of the water coming out of the rubber tube...But then, I brought the motor up slowly, 2500, 3,000, 4, then 5, held at 5. There was a good stream blowing out of the rubber tube...Then I kicked in the tail...Took it to 7350 for a very short, 5 second burst. At the end of that burst, water had started to sputter, as the motor backed down, turned to steam, and by the time it idled at 650 or so, the steam had pushed out the tube, then sputtering water, then a strong stream....I watched the temp gauge drop from 200/220° back to 140°, let it idle a tad more, then kicked it again...Same thing. As soon as you pass 5 grand, the water stops...I'm pulling the head...

I heard loud and clear what 18W said about the water stream, but this ain't making any cents....

As the pump RPM increases, is it at all possible that the pump is facing restriction issues because it is sucking water through 2) 1/8" holes, area of inlet is .0266. Area to fill, (the water inlet tube) is .119, or about 1/3 the inlet size needed to flow freely with no restriction.....Let's remember we have a test tank situation, and no water is being forced from the movement of the boat.

Does the increased pressure of the water coming in from the movement of the boat make up for the restriction from the smaller area at the water inlet?

[one eight-w]

The forcing of water into the openings on the front of the case will not help as long as the impeller is inside the case. The impeller will act as a restricter as it can only move the volume of water that will fit between each vane of the impeller.

How much water do you have in your test tank? Is there a chance that as the rpms increase, the test wheel you have made is creating a current and the gearcase is not getting all the water you need? Or maybe the gearcase is getting turbulant/aerated water?

[Tomtall]

the test wheel you have made is creating a current and the gearcase is not getting all the water you need? Or maybe the gearcase is getting turbulant/aerated water?

I have go with this one as well. Makes more sense that your drawing air bubbles in from the test wheel than having a W/P issue. I always break my engines in running a stock gearfoot and whittled down prop and never have had issues airing a block out. But My engines never run over 5700 RPM when in the tank either. Throw a stock foot on and see what happens first before tearing everything apart.

[Skoontz]

Thanks guys. you put me onto something. FYI, water in tank, is about where the water in the video Tom showed is...however, a much smaller tank. Smaller tank, more turbulence.

It is freeken pouring today, and i asked my mortgage company for a refund. I'm not getting weather that comes with the ridiculous overpriced houses in SoCal...

So, me thinketh, set the easy up on the shores of the lake, add stock foot, which we wanted to test anyhow. Check pumping in a larger tank, i.e. lake. Then bolt on race case, check pumping....

The motor sounds bad, as in good bad! This water thing just has me thinking AGAIN!

Will report back later.

[Skoontz]

In one hour, the rain will stop, MissKTDoodle is loaded in the trailer, stock shifter case loaded, hotrod foot loaded, 5 gallons of AVGAS and oil loaded....Since this is gunna be a quickie, no grille, no brats. I have steak maranding in ginger/soy/sesame seed sauce for later.

Pictures to follow

[Tomtall]

I have steak maranding in ginger/soy/sesame seed sauce for later.

What times supper!!!!

[Jeff Akers]

Bill, I don't know how are where you are getting your temp readings, but I would say that if you are taking the reading in the proper place ( on top of the cylinder head ) and you saw 220 deg F. Then I would pull the head for sure ! It has been my experiance that they will some times warp the head and blow the gasket at that temp.
Pull it, check the head for a warp with a strait edge, put on a new gasket. torque to spec, do a burn up to operating temp, let it cool, and make sure you retorque it.

Allso sounds like your test tank may be causing an issue........


Good luck ,hope to see you and KT at an R-11 race this year.