Qunicy Loopers FC64 FG52 FC62

[RogerH]

Frank,
I noticed the exact same thing on my FD67. Seeing I have to replace my reed blocks I was planning on port matching the reed blocks and the crank case ports. Thus, I'd be real interested in the forum's response to Frank's question as well. I am planning on using the larger reed cages when I rebuild the motor. I'm assuming this should assist, rather than hinder, the air/fuel charge into the motor. Please advise if you think I should rebuild using the original small size reed cages.
Is there a reason why the locating pin was not used?
Regards,
Roger H.

[Tim Weber]

I am not a looper expert but I don't think it would help because to get more air in it you would have to have the reed block opened up as well. Carving on reed blocks is tricky. I think I would leave it just as OF designed it.

You may want to put some Boysen reeds in. If you eat one it won't kill the motor. I would guess .012 thickness. You may be able to get away with .010 but I don't know about a looper for sure.

Tim

[fbref5269]

tim,

i'm looking at the reed cage and the inside has been milled to open it ip. i've compared it to a stock mark 30 reed cage and it at least twice as much area open inside. if i get a chance i'll try to take some pictures of the mark 30 and the looper reed cage. actually, and i think roger has the same thing on his, the reed cage was milled in the back to allow lubrication to get the the crank journal where it was riding. i think roger had both of his that was and i only had the lower one.

the boyerson reeds will be used in the rebuild! i had 3 reeds eaten away, not broken just eaten.

frank

[Mark75H]

You may want to put some Boysen reeds in. If you eat one it won't kill the motor. I would guess .012 thickness. You may be able to get away with .010 but I don't know about a looper for sure.Tim

Tim, I can't even get a deflector to run on .012 thick reeds for more than 3 or 4 minutes at a time. You need to be considerably thicker ... maybe .020 I find that .025 will be more flexible than the original steel reeds and give excellent service life.

[mercguy]

Frank,

Pay attention to what Daren has to say as he is one of the best of the young and upcoming Mercury mechanics that I know of. To say he is meticulous is an understatement.

Please keep posting as you restore the Loopers, I and I know many others are following your story with great interest.

thanks,

Paul A Christner

thanks for the kind words Paul. Although, nowadays I spend more time working on E-Tecs than Mercs.........

[Tim Weber]

Sam,

I told you I wasn't a looper expert! I did not know you needed such thick reeds.

Tim

[fbref5269]

hi all,

the tower is apart and will go got powder coated next week. bearings will be here next week the the internals will be going together. waiting on a few parts and pistons. right now it's polishing time, by hand. working on the crankcase. the carbs came out nice. cleaned the gunk out of the block and will start polishing it tomorrow.

it did however start looking at the other looper. i took the konig unit off o see if it turned and it does!!! it looks like ole phil went crazy with locktite on the cone nut. tried a little heat and it wouldn't budge. i'll have to bump up the heat next time. now here's the first surprise on that unit..... it has a c crank. i thought the c's and d's all used d cranks? is that something that came from quincy or is it a field modification by phil crown? i do have a c crank ready if this one is a habitrail for mud wasps.

happy fathers day everyone,

frank

[Original Looper 1]

Frank and Roger,

Keep up the positive attitudes while restoring your precious Loopers. I get calls all the time from people that are following the restoration thread on both of your restoration Looper projects with great interest.

I hope to sometime in the near future go back through the Quincy Welding dyno cards and look for the ones on your particular motors. Frank, I know I've seen 2 or 3 cards with Phil Crown's name on them. When I find matches, I will scan and post them here. You already have history on your Loopers but the dyno cards are absolute confirming documents.

A while back, in a senior moment, I almost sold the entire collection of Quincy Welding dyno cards to a guy that I have since found to be, how shall we say, ethically challenged. I am so glad that I recovered my senses in time - it must have been divine intervention. Can you imagine where we would all be right now without such a great source (along with the serial number book) to verify and document engines with?

thanks,

Paul A Christner

[fbref5269]

paul,

the looper project has been and continues to be a lot of fun. i try to inject some humor in the postings and a lot of pictures. the history you have provided has been great and will be put to good use. when you go to any type of antique show there is more interest with the items that tell of documented history. the dyno cards would be great! i've seen gerry waldman's dyno cards you've posted and they are so cool. that was good you vame to your senses before letting those cards go.

right now i've been ploishing the aluminum, all by hand. although the elbows will be cleaned professionally. roger has a contact for this. the bearings will be in this week and that phase of the restoration will begin.

i have started to work on the konig lower unit on the other looper. i am having one heck of a time getting the cone nut off. i know it's a left handed thread, but there is a ton of locktite in there. is there a secret way to get the nut free? i'm trying heat , but it may not be hot enough. any suggestions?

thank all of you for following roger and my projects. knowing others have interest in them adds to the enjoyment.

until next time,

frank

[mac19f]

Look down inside the exhaust hole on top of the unit and see if you don't see one or two allen head screws. These bolt all the way into the cone nut assemble. Some of these "LINKS" units have threaded conenut assemblies in addition to the allen head bolts. Some are not threaded and will just slide out after the bolts are removed. Hope your gears are good. The pinion gear is pressed on the driveshaft and is a bear to change. Best I can tell the driveshaft needle bearings are not available anywhere but I have found a substitute. Good luck.