Qunicy Loopers FC64 FG52 FC62

[John (Taylor) Gabrowski]

This is something a good husband should never do is cook to cure VHT paints on engine components in your wife's kitchen oven. I gave my wife an excuse to go and take the kids to the in-laws summer home while I did the deen in her new gas range. The smell of the curing paint caused me to turn off the air conditioning, open all the windows and fan vent the whole house. Two days later when she came home the place still stank bad and I was in deep ****! There was no smoke of any kind during the process but You could still smell the effects some 6 months later and she never made me forget it, though we laugh about it 35 years later. The bad boy that I was I slapped my own wrist for and never did it again indoors. Bought an old 220 volt wall oven and set it up outdoors and did a lot more that stank up the neighborhood up from time to time but at least I never got the eyes like daggers look I got from here for up to 6 months later doing that stuff the first time.

[RogerH]

Hello Frank,
Will be back in TN around 10/1. Can't wait to get back to the motor projects. I used the copper gasket spray on the head gaskets. It doesn't need to be baked. I believe either Dick Olhoff or Gene East recommended I use that.
Our daughter presented the world with Holly Marie on Monday. Gramps is getting ready for her first boat ride! An advantage of being in NY allowed me to get to the Witney Point race. Met some old timers I started out with from the Triple Cities area.
I'll be needing the torque numbers as well.
Regards,
Roger

[fbref5269]

hi roger,

that's great news! grand children are great. whole new perpective on life. now you get to see a whole new generation grow and learn from us old timers.

thanks for the copper spray idea. i'm going to write gene and frank to see what brand to use. would like to get away from baking as long as it does the same job. the head gasket for the engine was painted black. i need to know how to remove the little bit of black paint before applying the new stuff.

also kinda thought you would like the tourque numbers too.

have a safe trip home.

frank

[bill boyes]

Jimmy died several years ago. maybe 5-7 seems like. He was a little older than I am, I believe, so if he was still living he would be late 70's or so, maybe even a little more. We were not real close friends, just lived in the same town and raced for a few years in the same time frame, late 60's and early to mid 70's. I believe he retired from driving himself in the mid to late 70's but I also seem to remember that some younger folks that went with him to help drove some of his equipment after he quit driving but still owned equipment. Rex Hall drove for him in the mid to late 60's when he was just a young squirt. Rex is now the Rossi dealer for the US and could surely tell you about some of the engines Jimmy had and he drove. Another source is a guy named Don Dando who is I believe now retired from TWA and may still live in the KC area. Might check the members list on BRF, he might even belong. I remember him as being a real nice person, and a good boat racer.

Sorry I don't know more.

I have Don Dando's phone number if you want it P.M. me. He lives by the new Ford plant and has a ton of old motors.

[Original Looper 1]

Reply to Frank:

Your Quincy A Looper, #FA10, was originally purchased by Jack H. Schmittel according to the original Quincy Welding/ Precision Machine engine serial number log book.

Hope this is helpful. Maybe some of our viewers will recognize his name and have more info for you.

thanks,

Paul A Christner

PS: I get so many private emails from enthusiasts that are following you and Roger's restoration stories here of the Looper engines you 2 own. Bravo!

[fbref5269]

thanks paul,

i hope someone out there knows some background on the fa10. from the number it must have been made in 63 or earlier? any info would be great.

knowing a lot of people are following the progress makes roger and i feel a real part of the looper family. and it really does feel like a family.

we are still in need of the torque numbers if anyone knows them.

any thoughts of using locktite on the threads along with lock washers? or is that over kill?

frank

[Jeff Lytle]

Just my opinion, but loctite does nasty things to aluminum--Proceed with caution!

[fbref5269]

jeff,

thanks for the input. i know roger was blessing whoever put his d looper together with locktite. i was looking at their catalogue and they have some products you need heat to remove. what about using it in the steel studs where the bolts go? i guess that would only be to fasted on the mid section to the block. any idea what torque to use on the bolts?

frank

[RogerH]

Frank,
Just wanted to clarify that my motor used an "epoxy" like material - not loctite. It was a gray color and smoked / stunk real well when heated. I broke two allen sockets and 5 cap head bolts on the crankcase / head area. Had to heat them to about 350 degrees and then torque them out. Had to helicoil four of the head bolt threads that were shot. Other than that I got the rest out, but ALL needed heat. What ever that stuff was it was used on EVERY fastener anywhere on the motor, including the accessories. Remember that I'm almost certain that FD-67 was a kit / parts motor and assembled by Phil Crown or his mechanic. There were several indicators that this was the case.
Take care,
Roger

[fbref5269]

roger,

i remember you having to heat the bolts off. i thought it was locktite. i was lucky on fc52, not grey goo. not sure about the other phil crown engine. the elbows and the heads came off ok.

i spoke to bruce nicholson the other week and the engnine of his i have was also a kit. he told me they put it together the night before a race in the motel room! wonder if the cranked it up there too

take care,

frank