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Thread: Qunicy Loopers FC64 FG52 FC62

  1. #21
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    Default Looper Bolts & Nuts

    Frank,

    I would always recommend using the highest quality fasteners that you can find. On some of my show racing engines, I've used stainless steel because I can polish it to a chrome-like luster prior to installation. Just remember, whatever you finally decide to use, to be careful to document the grade and source of your fasteners.

    A few years ago, some fasterners that were supposed to be high quality ended up as rotor securing bolts for some of our military helicopters. The bolts were fradulently graded and started breaking under stress, crashing military helicopters and even costing some lives. Be sure to check out your source of fasteners very carefully, especially when parts are now coming from all over the world.


    thanks,

    Paul A Christner

  2. #22
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    paul,

    thanks for the insight. my concern is will they take the pressure of the compression in the heads. as long as i can get them to match the harding number on the bolts i should be ok. i want to run it as well as show. just have to make sure where they come from.

    thanks,

    frank

  3. #23
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    today i started to work on getting the crank and pistons out. i thought the 2 cyls looked bad! the front plate came off real nice but it revealed some nasty looking rods in the 2 cyls that were the haven for the mud daubers. i've been using wd-40 and an assortment of other products the tryl to make the piston extraction easier. they all can out but #2. it started to move then for some reason decided to stay put. i've got it soaking in wd-40 and will attempt to finish it tomorrow. i plan to hone the cyls to get rid of the junk. then soak the crank to loosen the rod nuts. when i have the crank out i'll post some more pictures. in the mean time here are some shots of the crank still in the block. enjoy.

    paul, after i get the block in shape i would like to discss what to do with the block and front plate to bring it back to looking new. i have heard about jet coating, but i'm afraid it may retain heat in the block. what are your thoughts?

    frank
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  4. #24
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    anybody got any ides what the crude is on the 2 rods? it's flakey stuff and i know some of it may be from the bees. from what i see so far it's not rust. if it's old castor why in just those 2 cyls?

    frank

  5. #25
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    Default Gooky stuff..........

    Look at the entry...........When bees go into a structure, I have seen them enter and go DOWN. Does this make sense?
    Charley Bradley


  6. #26
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    charley,

    the engine had uncovered elbows while being stored in an old barn for 40 years. the bees entered thru open exhaust ports. they would have gone down into the lower end of the rod. i'm thinking the flakey stuff is old castor. i just hope i can save the crank and some rods. if not i'll be looking for a d crank.

    frank

  7. #27
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Fortunately, D cranks are easy to come by.
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  8. #28
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    i sure hope so cuz i gotta another to tear down after this one is together. another bee santuary.

  9. #29
    Tim Weber
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    That is a real mess! I have had some good success with a product called KROIL. It's a penetrating oil. They have a couple of different versions of it.
    I bought it from their web site. Just type in KROIL. I used it to help loosen up some C-service stuff that had been sitting around.

    Tim

  10. #30
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    tim,

    thanks for the info. right now i have spayed some stuff called pb. i've keep spraying every hour or so. if that doesn't work i'll go to the web site and get the item you told me about. once it's out i'll soak the crank and rods in something. wonder if the wife will notice the roasting pan is missing.

    frank

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