Qunicy Loopers FC64 FG52 FC62

**fbref5269** · 05-22-2007

dave,

that's a new one on me. paul, have you hd any experience with it? i went to the web site and they have everything. wonder if it would work? they do have the glass beads at the grit richard ollhoff uses. i'm going to try the orison products i ordered today and see how they do. i am hoping the paint remover will double as a cleaner too like the tech said over the phone. they were also very excited about the evapo rust product. they should produce some great before and after pictures.

frank

**Dave_E71** · 05-24-2007

Frank,

What number did you use when you raced?

Dave

**fbref5269** · 05-24-2007

dave,

my numbers were e-52 and 52-e. the 52 in my sign in is that number.

frank

**fbref5269** · 05-28-2007

hi all,

the product paul told us about, evapo rust by orison marketing really does the job. i have the throttle linkage soaking in it now and even after 1 hour it is really melting the rust away. looks like it was painted grey back in 65. i also bought the paint remover from them and i'm using it as a cleaner. i have some pictures of how the center casting, don't know what it's called, came out. i also have a before picture of the front plate which mates up to it. cyl nuimber 2 and 4 were nasty. look at how it cleaner worked! and to clean it off you use water! no nasty smell. paul, thanks for the heads up on the company. once the cleaner soaked for a while i took a wire brush and just worked it off.

it looks like my rods and crank have a lot of castor buildup. i have it soaking in the evapo rust right now to get the rust off then i'll clean it with the paint remover. those pictures of the crank and fromt plate will be posted later this week i hope.

i do have a question as to bearings... i remember back in the days of c stock and c service sec 2, the crank bearings were .126 dia. did quincy use the same bearing? or did they use .125?

hope these pictures help show how ther stuff works.

frank

**fbref5269** · 06-05-2007

hi all,

i can now shake the crank and nothing rattles because nothing is on it. what a mess. if you look ant my crank pictures and rogers crank pictures they look the same. we don't know what happened in #2 and #4 cyl, but it put ruts in the rods and crank. i have purchased an almost new crank for the looper and i'm waiting on 2 replacement rods. the rods i had hoped to use were the light ones with holes in the lower end.

as the engine underwent the wrench i noticed several items i will be needing. here's the list so far:

4 thumb screws for the clamps(i'm going to need them on the other one too)
4 washers that go on the end of the thumb screws
cone bearing holder with bearings and seals for the d quickie lower unit.

i know i'm not ready for these items yet, but i want to stay a few steps ahead. i hope someone who is following the progress here or roger's d restoration can help. i have to say all of you have been a big help to both of us. can't wait to make her breath again!

frank

**mercguy** · 06-05-2007

Originally Posted by fbref5269

hi all,

i can now shake the crank and nothing rattles because nothing is on it. what a mess. if you look ant my crank pictures and rogers crank pictures they look the same. we don't know what happened in #2 and #4 cyl, but it put ruts in the rods and crank. i have purchased an almost new crank for the looper and i'm waiting on 2 replacement rods. the rods i had hoped to use were the light ones with holes in the lower end.

as the engine underwent the wrench i noticed several items i will be needing. here's the list so far:

4 thumb screws for the clamps(i'm going to need them on the other one too)
4 washers that go on the end of the thumb screws
cone bearing holder with bearings and seals for the d quickie lower unit.

i know i'm not ready for these items yet, but i want to stay a few steps ahead. i hope someone who is following the progress here or roger's d restoration can help. i have to say all of you have been a big help to both of us. can't wait to make her breath again!

frank

Frank, you can still buy the thumb screw assy from Merc, although they are not cheap! p/n 22477A4 $38 ea

**fbref5269** · 06-06-2007

thanks for the reply daren. i didn't think mrec still had them available. i'm hoping to get a used set if i can. rusty is fine. the evaporust product that paul christner wrote about in an earlier posting works great and reallt takes the rust right off. if i can't find the used ones i'll get them from mercury. thanks for the heads up.

frank

**Original Looper 1** · 06-06-2007

Frank,

Pay attention to what Daren has to say as he is one of the best of the young and upcoming Mercury mechanics that I know of. To say he is meticulous is an understatement.

Please keep posting as you restore the Loopers, I and I know many others are following your story with great interest.

thanks,

Paul A Christner

**fbref5269** · 06-06-2007

paul,

thank you for the insight on daren. i hope to tap into his knowledge as i proceed. i know roger will also. the more i thought about it it seems dumb to put an old pair of thumb screws one something i'm trying to make new. i am however very impressed with that evaporust you told us about!

here is a picture of the inside of the crank case that i posted pictures of a week or so ago. there is some stain let on the aluminum i can't seem to get out. any ideas out there? roger is trying the aluminum cleaner from orison and he's going to report on how it works. in the meantime what can i use to get the stain out. i know it's on the inside and may not matter. there is no residue left over on it and no pitting, so it's just stain.

right now i'm working on the outside of the crank case and carbs. the carbs cleaned up real nice with carb cleaner.

i'm ging to post a picture of the crank soon. not sure if it's worth saving. i have purchased a replacement and it looks brand new. the old one may be good to make into a lamp. that would interesting, old engine parts art.

thank you all for following the progress roger hindsdale and i are making.

frank

**fbref5269** · 06-06-2007

hi all,

here's a question.... if you look at the before picture on the inside of the crankcase you will see the outline of where the reed cage meets the crankcase. if you notice on the left of both the top and the bottom intake, the reed opening is covered by part of the crankcase. this is really noticable in the lower intake. would it help if i opened up the intake to match the reed opening? wouldn't the fuel and air flow better? i know it's not going to compete against the c's of today but i would like to have a nice running looper.

any thoughts?

frank