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Thread: FD67 Restoration Progress

  1. #1
    RogerH
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    Default FD67 Restoration Progress

    Well, I finally got some time to disassemble and start to clean up the "D" Looper. What a haven for spiders and mud wasps! Not to mention the moisture. It came apart hard but all the Quincy parts are in great shape. I'll try to add photos at the end - sort of a before and after.

    I have a bunch of questions about things I noticed when disassembling the motor. I hope various people can answer my questions and provide some insight into why certain things were done as they were. These are in no particular order.

    Pistons: I'm assuming the flat tops were a Quincy item. What is the purpose of the hole above the rod pin? What was the compression ratio of the "D" Looper?

    Rod/Rod Bolt: I noticed that the rod cap and rod bolt were chamfered, was this for clearance or other reason? The crank didn't rotate so I couldn't check clearances etc.

    Reed Cages: Were the "extra" side locating bolts necessary? Was surprised to find them - just curious. I also noticed that the reed stops were left stock, unlike on the deflector motor I have. Why not open the reed stop on the Loopers as well? Is it not needed with the extra ports? Also, my top and bottom cages were not the same. The top had one small hole added at the crank journal where the bottom had two 1/2" holes added to this area. The top cage's carb opening was opened about 1/4" more than the bottom's opening. Was this just production variation? What is the purpose of the holes at the crank journal area? Lubrication?

    Thread Locker: I found a gray thread locker about EVERYWHERE! It made it very difficult to disassemble - heat became my friend! Was this an epoxy? Did Quincy use this or did Phil Crown do this?

    Head Gaskets: Paul mentioned that they were painted and mine were also. Can these be reused? and if so, how & with what should they be painted with before assembly?

    Gaskets: Are any of the Quincy unique gaskets available? Does anyone have patterns. These won't be too hard to make, but thought I'd ask about availability of patterns.

    I anticipate replacing the rotating parts and will likely use new pistons from Dick Ollhoff. I believe the pistons might be reusable, but they are not very clean. The motor appears not to have been run very much as I see no indication of wear. The distributor rotor and terminals had only traces of pitting/black. I will likely update the distributor (red/blue type) with a 650 battery CDI unit. I'd greatly appreciate any suggestions of things I should do (or not do) during the rebuild. I haven't honed the cylinders yet, but they don't look too bad and I think they will clean up with a hone job. If you would rather call or eMail here is my contact information 423-452-0428, hinsdale@bellsouth.net. I'm hoping that the answers to some of the questions above will provide informations to others that enjoy these fantastic motors. I am fascinated with the overall design of the Looper block assembly!
    Regards,
    Roger
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  2. #2
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    The hole in the piston communicates with the 5th transfer port, also called a "finger" port or "boost" port found across from the exhaust ports in each cylinder.

    Incoming charge from the crankcase can pass thru the hole in the piston, along the slot in the cylinder and into the cylinder without taking the longer route thru the 4 side passages to the 4 larger transfer ports.

    Post showing function of each port and passage on a Quincy Looper

    The minimum cc's were 15cc's ... 177cc's with the piston at BDC ... 11.8:1 if you calculate the compression full stroke
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  3. #3
    RogerH
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    Thanks for the quick and informative reply. It makes the hobby much more interesting when you can learn the engineering and history associated with the motors being rebuilt. Thanks again!
    Roger

  4. #4
    RogerH
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    Default Help!! Need 4-"L" Piston Rings (2.455")

    I found that one piston had been "chewing" on a small piece of the ring, but I don't think it has damaged the piston. The ring is history. I also doubt that I will be able to get the other three piston rings off without breaking them (stuck).

    Where / How does one go about locating or having rings built for this motor?

    The block bore cleaned up pretty well with by honing with a medium stone. I will be replacing all of the internal rotating parts as most were too pitted from rust to be reusable. I am thankful that the Quincy castings are in great shape considering the "junk" that was inside the motor.

  5. #5
    Team Member racnbns's Avatar
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    Default L rings

    Roger---
    I have some used L rings that would work if you can't find new ones. P M me or e-mail---racnbns@sbcglobal.net

    Bruce

  6. #6
    - Skoontz's Avatar
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    If you can't find usable cranks, you can shot peen the old one, then find a hard chromer, then take it to a crank grinder to put it to spec. The hard chrome is alot harder than the stock sufaces and will run forever.

  7. #7
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoontz View Post
    If you can't find usable cranks, you can shot peen the old one, then find a hard chromer, then take it to a crank grinder to put it to spec. The hard chrome is alot harder than the stock sufaces and will run forever.
    There are thousands of useable cranks out there ... that will never be a problem.
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  8. #8
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    Default RPMs????

    What R,s did loopers turn? Reason i ask is 'cause 4 cyl mod modas turn near 8k, mercs i mean, but 6s sound kool.
    RichardKCMo

  9. #9
    Team Member racnbns's Avatar
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    Default Looper RPM

    Quote Originally Posted by RichardKCMo View Post
    What R,s did loopers turn? Reason i ask is 'cause 4 cyl mod modas turn near 8k, mercs i mean, but 6s sound kool.
    RichardKCMo
    I put a tach. on my C looper and saw 10,500. That was the only one I ever put a tach. on.

    Bruce

  10. #10
    RogerH
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    Default FD67 Progress Report

    Thanks to Bruce I now have the last pieces of the internal rotating parts I needed to complete the restoration. Basically I've had to replace the entire rotating components with few exceptions. I'm also going to build a replacement set of reed cages based upon the "large" cages instead of the smaller ones. Will port match the openings to these castings. The original "small" cages were not usable. I also received some products from Orison today that I'm going to test for restoring the castings to their original condition (as best I can). I have done approx. 50 Corvette Rochester FI units, so am familiar with how touchy this is to do. By the way, I learned last week that my 65 Corvette FI coupe was lost forever in a garage fire at a good friend's home. At least the boating community has found XF14 again, and know that Bruce will do it justice for all to appreciate again. Keep us posted on your progress Bruce.
    Regards,
    Roger

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