Konig History

[Smokin' Joe]

Thanks for the photos of the memorial Dumperjack and the photos of the Friends of Dieter. I had seen pictures of the memorial before, but not from the additional angles nor the Friends of Dieter. I knew most of those guys.

Our website provider went down for a couple of days, so sorry to respond so late Joe. There was not an 1100 cc Konig. That was an American class created to keep the 6 cylinder Mercs in the mix. That would have been the old F class. OF in UIM is a max of 1000 cc,s and we wanted to keep the 6 cylinder loopers and deflectors racing, plus a little allowance for overboring to clean up cylinders.

As far as testing on the canal, I can't remember exactly where it was, but it was close to the factory, though not across the street. Seems like we loaded a boat on the roof of Dieter's Mercedes then went a short way down Saatwinkler Damm where there was a ramp that led down to the water. It was very narrow and my first lap, I was unable to make the turn and had to kill the engine and drift up against the sloped cobblestone embankment. The next attempt I dropped the sponsons back in the water, and when it slowed enough, I jerked the wheel hard and almost all the way to the left while at the same time getting back hard on the throttle and that caused the prop to break loose. Then I could just spin the back around until I got aimed the right direction and back off so the prop could bite again. Kind of like getting a cavitation started, then feathering the throttle to take back off. Takes a little practice. Hans Krage was a master in that canal.

Now to the props. I did some research in our test book and unfortunately not all the prop info is there. Most of our best props were Seebold and Hopkins. Testing revealed that some of the best props weren't working that great all the time depending on the set up. Although we started running a couple of 3 bladed cleavers at the end of our career, I don't have any data on them. I think that your prop would be worth a good look on a C (500cc hydro) with a 15:16 lower unit or a B (350cc hydro) with a 15:16 lower unit. Maybe even a D (600cc hydro or the American class 700cc hydro) with a 15:16 lower unit.

Our Hopkins BRG1- PC11 prop worked good on a B with a 12:14 and C with 15:16. It was considered 7 X 13 with measurements of 12 1/2--11 1/2---14 7/8 across both blades. It was one of the few props that measured identical on each blade.

Hopkins BRG1-PKD 66 also ran good on both B and C with same gear ratios as above. It was a 7 X 13 measuring 12 11 and 14 1/2 on one blade and 12 1/2 11 1/2 and 14 1/2 on the other blade.

One of Marshall Grant's props.( K4-10), that ran good on our 4 carb, dual rotary valve engine with a 1:1 lower unit was a 6 7/8 diameter prop with blade readings of 11 10 7/8 15 and 11 11 7/8 15.

We had a lot of success with a Hopkins CDH prop, a Hopkins Baldy 4, a Seebold Super D Konig, and a Seebold 113 ssc that was a 7 X 13, but infortunately I don't have any other data for comparison on those.

Hi Wayne, thanks for the detailed reply on turning in the canal (!) and the props. I was at the OPC nationals for 4 days, worked much of the time on props. Had only two successes there but I saw Jim Booe for the first time since 1981 (Havasu), he talked long with me beside a table where my pitch gauges were used, and he told me two things, one really crucial, that I hadn't thought about. It's the sort of thing that makes me wish my legs were long enough to kick myself, because I know a lot about boat bottoms but never thought to apply all that knowledge to the high pressure face of a prop blade. 'D' in physics there for me, 'A' for Jim Booe!

I've written an article for the Antique Outboarder about our König and Arens factory visits and would like to quote you on how you turned in the canal! Hae you done anything with the König you bought? Best, Joe

[Master Oil Racing Team]

Feel free to quote me Joe, but I'm not sure that was the best way. It was the only way I figured I could do it having never driven a boat rigged that way before. I can't remember exactly how the steering was now, but it was very direct. I could not have turned one of my boats that way unless I had one of those "knuckle knockers" or whatever the 50's high school hot rodders had on the steering wheels of their 57 Chevy's. It would probably take a turn and a half of the steering wheel or so in one of my boats. I'm thinking that there was no pulley on the steering bar. What ever you spooled up on the drum turning left was directly fed back to the steering bar on the right without having been run through a pulley and tied off at the cockpit. This would be direct steering like with a rope tied to the front axle of a homemade derby car. I might be wrong about that setup, and maybe Steve Litzell could correct it, but the technique I used to get around a single pin in a narrow chute seemed to work O.K.

As far as the Konig goes, I tried cleaning the outside with different chemicals, but the rough casting and decades of castor oil baked and gummed in made it very hard. I didn't want to polish it smooth and I didn't want to disassemble it and soak it in some stuff Paul Christner told me about that would do the job. Then I thought that if I just cleaned the worst bit of it off and left the castor oil down in the niches, crannies, and lowest parts of the casting then there would still be a little bit left of Marshall Grant, my racing team, Harry Bartolomei, and the other owners left on it. I painted the stacks and elbows black, as well as the original style coils. I cleaned up the tower housing, but I have not found the seals and bearings for the lower unit yet. I got busy in the oilfield and have not yet gotten a bracket made to hang on the wall. I have the powerhead stored in my darkroom to keep it out of the dust. I do need to get the bracket made so I can put it all together.

You know Joe, I have thought about some things we could have done back in the day had we thought about it. A lot of the ideas have come from BRF members. Sometimes they say things that make you think, and you could have applied it to something you were having problems with. I still have a horsepower producing idea in my mind that would be legal and I think would significantly increase horsepower, but no one on our team had the ability or equipment to build it, and we didn't trust any outside source. It was toward the end of our racing career so we never tried it on boats, although it worked well in an oilfield application.

[ProHydroRacer]

Feel free to quote me Joe, but I'm not sure that was the best way. It was the only way I figured I could do it having never driven a boat rigged that way before. I can't remember exactly how the steering was now, but it was very direct. I could not have turned one of my boats that way unless I had one of those "knuckle knockers" or whatever the 50's high school hot rodders had on the steering wheels of their 57 Chevy's. It would probably take a turn and a half of the steering wheel or so in one of my boats. I'm thinking that there was no pulley on the steering bar. What ever you spooled up on the drum turning left was directly fed back to the steering bar on the right without having been run through a pulley and tied off at the cockpit. This would be direct steering like with a rope tied to the front axle of a homemade derby car. I might be wrong about that setup, and maybe Steve Litzell could correct it, but the technique I used to get around a single pin in a narrow chute seemed to work O.K.

As far as the Konig goes, I tried cleaning the outside with different chemicals, but the rough casting and decades of castor oil baked and gummed in made it very hard. I didn't want to polish it smooth and I didn't want to disassemble it and soak it in some stuff Paul Christner told me about that would do the job. Then I thought that if I just cleaned the worst bit of it off and left the castor oil down in the niches, crannies, and lowest parts of the casting then there would still be a little bit left of Marshall Grant, my racing team, Harry Bartolomei, and the other owners left on it. I painted the stacks and elbows black, as well as the original style coils. I cleaned up the tower housing, but I have not found the seals and bearings for the lower unit yet. I got busy in the oilfield and have not yet gotten a bracket made to hang on the wall. I have the powerhead stored in my darkroom to keep it out of the dust. I do need to get the bracket made so I can put it all together.

You know Joe, I have thought about some things we could have done back in the day had we thought about it. A lot of the ideas have come from BRF members. Sometimes they say things that make you think, and you could have applied it to something you were having problems with. I still have a horsepower producing idea in my mind that would be legal and I think would significantly increase horsepower, but no one on our team had the ability or equipment to build it, and we didn't trust any outside source. It was toward the end of our racing career so we never tried it on boats, although it worked well in an oilfield application.

I use Castoroil Super Clean, can be found at most auto part stores and sometime at Wal-Mart. Don't use on painted surfaces!!
Bill

[A/B Speedliner]

This VB70 Konig was castor stuck when purchased and the outside was also pretty nasty. I soaked it in t tub of kerosene for three weeks, took it apart and wiped it down with dry cotton rags. I painted the elbows and support black, replace ignition and down.

[Mark75H]

Sort of belongs on it's own castor stuck thread ... I have a 6 cylinder merc crankshaft, rods and pistons that are still castor stuck. Superclean did nothing at all for it. I'm afraid the castor has turned into some kind of polymer that there isn't a safe solvent for.

[A/B Speedliner]

Sam

Did you not read Waynes post about how he cleaned up his engine so I just thought I would add how I did cleaned up of the Konig I purchased. If you would stop and get off your high horse and read what is posted you would appear to be as inteligent as I know you are. You have a wealth of knowledge and we all appreciate your contributrions but your delivery needs to be improved.

David

[Mark75H]

Sam

Did you not read Waynes post about how he cleaned up his engine so I just thought I would add how I did cleaned up of the Konig I purchased. If you would stop and get off your high horse and read what is posted you would appear to be as inteligent as I know you are. You have a wealth of knowledge and we all appreciate your contributrions but your delivery needs to be improved.

David

I'll take your advice and try the kerosene.

[Mark75H]

Quickest 3 week test ever ... David's process works. I left my parts covered in grease and they almost wipe clean after sitting greased up for a long time (probably over a year). The longest I tried letting the other cleaners sit was a couple days and it was hard to remove the cleaner residue that did nothing for the super hard stuck stuff; it was worse than just waiting a few minutes or an hour.

I had even left kerosene in the cylinders for a month while the whole motor was together and ended up pressing the pistons out with grease pressure. After I got it apart I tried everything I could think of and everything that was suggested by others at the time. Nothing worked so I just greased it up and put it on the shelf. Today, the castor varnish - that appeared to be so hard and resistant to everything - will easily scratch off with your fingernail.

I'm going to have to dig up that other thread and update it with credit to David for giving us the process that works.

[F-12]

You can also try Simple Green Grill cleaner. I have had great results with it and even got a comment from John Schubert on how I got everything so clean. It sprays on, let it sit for a few minutes and clean it off with a terry cloth rag. The VB70 looks great by the way..........

[Steve Litzell]

Feel free to quote me Joe, but I'm not sure that was the best way. It was the only way I figured I could do it having never driven a boat rigged that way before. I can't remember exactly how the steering was now, but it was very direct. I could not have turned one of my boats that way unless I had one of those "knuckle knockers" or whatever the 50's high school hot rodders had on the steering wheels of their 57 Chevy's. It would probably take a turn and a half of the steering wheel or so in one of my boats. I'm thinking that there was no pulley on the steering bar. What ever you spooled up on the drum turning left was directly fed back to the steering bar on the right without having been run through a pulley and tied off at the cockpit. This would be direct steering like with a rope tied to the front axle of a homemade derby car. I might be wrong about that setup, and maybe Steve Litzell could correct it, but the technique I used to get around a single pin in a narrow chute seemed to work O.K.

As far as the Konig goes, I tried cleaning the outside with different chemicals, but the rough casting and decades of castor oil baked and gummed in made it very hard. I didn't want to polish it smooth and I didn't want to disassemble it and soak it in some stuff Paul Christner told me about that would do the job. Then I thought that if I just cleaned the worst bit of it off and left the castor oil down in the niches, crannies, and lowest parts of the casting then there would still be a little bit left of Marshall Grant, my racing team, Harry Bartolomei, and the other owners left on it. I painted the stacks and elbows black, as well as the original style coils. I cleaned up the tower housing, but I have not found the seals and bearings for the lower unit yet. I got busy in the oilfield and have not yet gotten a bracket made to hang on the wall. I have the powerhead stored in my darkroom to keep it out of the dust. I do need to get the bracket made so I can put it all together.

You know Joe, I have thought about some things we could have done back in the day had we thought about it. A lot of the ideas have come from BRF members. Sometimes they say things that make you think, and you could have applied it to something you were having problems with. I still have a horsepower producing idea in my mind that would be legal and I think would significantly increase horsepower, but no one on our team had the ability or equipment to build it, and we didn't trust any outside source. It was toward the end of our racing career so we never tried it on boats, although it worked well in an oilfield application.

Yea Wayne, you got it right on the steering, it was direct, and the boat I drove over there had about a 2.5 inch hub at the wheel end. With the torque of the D and the little hub, you had to be pretty tough to not only turn it but then straighten back up as well. The secret at the canal was go full speed down and let off complete and turn as you done that. This action spun out the boat basically and you had to pinch it then to come back. The race course than Han's put races on at had very narrow course widths. I always said it was like driving down a bowling alley lane on the front stretch through the ball return and then up the next alley to come back. This was done sometimes with 20 or so boats as you remember. On your caster cleaning thing, I start with laquer thinner to cut and soften the first layer and then use Wesley's Bleach White. You have to rinse off the Bleach white with water.Then spray some gun oil on it like break free. When i do resto stuff for customers I have a different process that make the Aluminum look new. I have another process for the exhausts stuff. If you send me a elbow I will do for you to see if you like it. Steve