Chris Chamberlain's Wetback

[zul8tr]

That is a great picture. I'm sure it changed personalities after the mods you mentioned. And you also did well mentioning the big guns from FL. All great racers. Stopped by Dave Rawson's house today while I was out and he wasn't home. Busy with what his most recent project is I assume.............

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Charley
Would you pass my hello to Dave. I hope he remembers the name Pete Sushinsky. I would like to know what he is up to. Does he have an email address? Maybe he can come to Ocoee this March 12-14?

Thanks
Pete

[JohnsonM50]

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Would you pass my hello to Dave. I hope he remembers the name Pete Sushinsky. I would like to know what he is up to. Maybe he can come to Ocoee this March 12-14?

Pete, Your Wetback"s AwsomE. My pals got a Clark Craft kit Wetback he assembled but it isnt the same. Its probably not sitka spruce & has fir plywood, when he built it about 12 years ago the Hak Kelly written plan called for it to weigh I think 125#. Reeves beefed his up a little & it has full traps, we weight it last year & its a whopp-n 178# dry w/ hardware. The fir is RUFF compared Okuome or Sapele. I keep joke-n that as soom as he damages it a little we're gonna re-skin it but what the hey..he's happy & not racing. Now if you look at the C.C. website it states 175# as the kit weight so in retrospect they have some kool plans but forget the kits. Ive got a fair amount of wheel time in it, itll do slightly over 50 with an OMC 35 so amongst your average lake boat its speedy. Ill have to show him your pic.

[zul8tr]

Pete, Your Wetback"s AwsomE. My pals got a Clark Craft kit Wetback he assembled but it isnt the same. Its probably not sitka spruce & has fir plywood, when he built it about 12 years ago the Hak Kelly written plan called for it to weigh I think 125#. Reeves beefed his up a little & it has full traps, we weight it last year & its a whopp-n 178# dry w/ hardware. The fir is RUFF compared Okuome or Sapele. I keep joke-n that as soom as he damages it a little we're gonna re-skin it but what the hey..he's happy & not racing. Now if you look at the C.C. website it states 175# as the kit weight so in retrospect they have some kool plans but forget the kits. Ive got a fair amount of wheel time in it, itll do slightly over 50 with an OMC 35 so amongst your average lake boat its speedy. Ill have to show him your pic.

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Thanks for the response. Back in those days the hydro weighed 125 lbs with hardware and I used to meet the 365 lb min for 25ssh by a pound or two - raced real close to the min at weigh in to get every advantage allowed. Used to frustrate the other racers they would hope I was under. I still have the hydro and it has been restored to better than when I raced it with some additional mods. If you want latest pics and any specific details for your pal just PM me.

[Healey75]

Reading these last few posts has rekindled my enthusiasm to build a Wetback maybe starting the end of this year, I run for fun a Hal Kelly Jinx Utility built and raced here in the UK in the early '60s (not by me) and the plan is to convert this to run a 14'' nominal hydro transom to take the MK40H or a Yamato 302 for this coming season which should prove to be adequately buttock clenching. Then once the Wetback is built I run either boat with either engine. You guys have loads of experiance over there so question... I have been lucky enough to be given a set of original plans (that came over here from Hall Kelly to Len Melly) ... If I build the wetback as a 'D' according to the plans a 'D' should be 20% bigger which would make around it 11ft 10'' long, this seems huge! Reading your posts I wonder if I need to build a 'D'...its only for fun do you recon I would get away with a 'C' as per the plans with the Mk40H or Yamato...driver weight is around 170lbs...wait to hear.

[Chambo]

I have wetback plans and instructions available,I am the one that this thread started over, pm me if interested, Chris PS biuld the d version,i have one i built about 1 year ago ,these are full size plans !! i am 195lbs and would not whant a smaller boat,

[JohnsonM50]

I agree with Chambo on not wanting smaller. That works as a racer on a closed course but when out for play in general traffic the B Wetback with the low cowl & coaming risks swamping or stuffing. When you encounter a large boat wake it can hit you [or you- it] several times. Keep an eye on weight as you build & the D should be cool even if you run smaller motors than design. Id also advise going with Okuome or Sapele ply. Sapeles slightly heavier & more durable, dont use the Fir that some kits offer, itll weigh alot Good Luck.

[Mark75H]

I agree as well ... it will be a lot smaller when its in the water. 12 ft is not huge for a D boat, 13 could even be good for a D ... and ... for play, BIGGER is much better

In the Pacific Northwest, they race 44ci motors like yours on 14 ft hydros

[Healey75]

Thanks guys... 'D' it is, we run on small lakes with a mix of boats and they can throw a lost of wash about so you make absolute sense, as you say for fun... big is better. I really ppreciate you all taking time to comment. One of the problems over here now is getting decent timber and ply at sensible prices to build it light, some of the so called marine ply is light but has poor stiffnes..all part of the challenge, thanks again.

[JohnsonM50]

Thanks guys... 'D' it is, we run on small lakes with a mix of boats and they can throw a lost of wash about so you make absolute sense, as you say for fun... big is better. I really ppreciate you all taking time to comment. One of the problems over here now is getting decent timber and ply at sensible prices to build it light, some of the so called marine ply is light but has poor stiffnes..all part of the challenge, thanks again.

We can get very good plywood here in several places. Closest to you would be nearly straight across the pond.. Harbor- www.harborsales.net In Baltimore. Md. Im sure expensive but free to look. Good Luck.

[zul8tr]

Thanks guys... 'D' it is, we run on small lakes with a mix of boats and they can throw a lost of wash about so you make absolute sense, as you say for fun... big is better. I really ppreciate you all taking time to comment. One of the problems over here now is getting decent timber and ply at sensible prices to build it light, some of the so called marine ply is light but has poor stiffnes..all part of the challenge, thanks again.

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Just don't use fir plywood because it is too heavy, easy to bend at cross grain that contributes to checking at the stringers and it checks easily at relatively low bending stress unless fiberglassed. Use Okume (lightest and preferred) or Sepele (heavier than Okume and costs more but more durable).

For the solid pieces I have used No1 grade spruce available at lumber yards. It has staight grain and min to no knots and has good strength to weight. Certainly not as good as stika species but that wood is very costly.