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Thread: tohatsu test wheel

  1. #1
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    Default tohatsu test wheel

    Im looking for a test wheel for a mod 50 d tohatsu .Or ways to build one thanks lee

  2. #2
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    D Quicksilver wheel should work fine
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  3. #3
    John (Taylor) Gabrowski
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    Default Make a Anderson-Hallum type test disk pictured in the Anzani section.

    LeeHall: The best kind of test wheel for any engine is one that loads to the hilt to make maximum and accurate tunning adjustments. You can see many of those types of smooth disk testwheels being used on tunnel boats etc. with high horsepower as they really have to keep them down for the same tunning accuracy.

    You can build your own by example by seeing an example that was pioneered by Anderson and Hallum and later others to tune a variety of engines from stock, modified and pro engines too outside of doing dyno work. You can find a Anderson - Hallum style test wheel in the outboard history section in the later pages of the British Anzani thread section. They are not expensive to build and use a good grade of aluminum for the water friction plate and hub. Pinning the plate to the prop shaft is tailored to the engine its being made for. Remember that a Mod50 is a loop charged power monster in comparrison to a D-Merc be it a 40 or 44 deflector engine so a good test wheel is not just desirable but a necessity. I would view using a Merc D testwheel as inherently dangerous and potentially unstable for use under a Mod50. I would not go near a Merc D testwheel for the purposes your into. I have already blown 3 Merc D testwheels apart of which 2 gave no warning under D-Mod 44 and then Merc/Mariner 650 3-Holer FE engines under test. From there instead of test wheels for just the Anzanis I built more for C,D stocks and C,D,E,FE Mods as well. Safety first and definitely a better design of test wheel.

    These Anderson - Hallum test disks/wheels are so good I and others I know abandoned the class D Mercury test wheel back in the late 1970s because the Anderson - Hallum test wheel loads so much better making tunning very accurate until the heavier loads imposed.

    From any standpoint of comparison one would be better advised to leave the old Merc test wheels with their knotched perimeters and excessive splashing to the collectors market where they will fetch more than double for what a person could make a real good Anderson - Hallum test wheel or just keep the Merc on the wall as a display part.

    Yes! They, the Anderson - Hallum type test wheels are that good! Want extra and free advice on making your own email me at: catwerx@hotmail.com I have unlimited long distance telephone so we could also set up a call some evening to go over its finer details of construction but the Anzani threads are a good example to start with before a call.
    Last edited by John (Taylor) Gabrowski; 11-19-2008 at 09:46 PM. Reason: additions & deletions

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    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Yeah, a lot of aftermarket D test wheels break at the hub.

    Either an original Merc test wheel or one with a steel hub is better than an aftermarket cast as one piece
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  5. #5
    John (Taylor) Gabrowski
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    Default The Anderson - Hallum test wheel is 2 part and not cast.

    The Anderson - Hallum test wheel is not cast at all but 2 machined parts (a separate disk and a separate stepped hub to bolt the disk to) that are then bolted together as a unit. No Anderson - Hallum designed version I have known have ever failed and disintegrated. If there are other cast aluminum aftermarket versions I would be in avoidance with them as well as the Merc D at this point. Though there may be some better ones out there the general rule is not to rely upon such an aluminum casting for such a purpose.

  6. #6
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    Tohatsu sells test wheels directly from the factory. We have one for the 40C model. It seems a bit light but it certainly works. They're not too bad on price either. If you want me to do some research for you and order one from the factory I can for you. I am a dealer, I just need to look up the numbers and see what they cost.

    Contact me via phone at 612 578 1220, or email brian@tabararacing.com.

    Good luck!

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