Thread: Fast Fred's OMC Mod 50 secrets Thread #2

  1. #581
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    Default Mr. Gasket instructions

    The Mr. Gasket (Micro) Solid State Electric Fuel Pump is designed to replace
    the original equipment fuel pump on carbureted cars, trucks, industrial and farm
    equipment, including lawn and garden. A fuel pressure regulator is recommended
    if using on a carburetor.Works great for fuel transfer systems in gasoline
    applications as well as an excellent booster pump for the existing mechanical
    pump. (NOT FOR FUEL INJECTION SYSTEMS.) The Mr. Gasket Micro Fuel Pump
    provides extreme reliability, fast engine starting in hot and cold weather without
    vapor locking problems. When installed properly the Mr. Gasket Micro Fuel
    Pumps will provide a constant fuel supply under all conditions (Original
    Equipment only, not recommended for high performance or modified engines,
    not recommended for any type of aircraft or marine application).The Mr. Gasket
    Micro Pump is a self priming fuel pump with simple two bolt and two wire
    installation, with extremely low amp draw. (Average 2 amps at maximum delivery).
    NOT FOR USE WITH DIESEL FUEL!

    Pump Mounting:
    Locate a pump position about 12’’ from the fuel tank and as close to the lowest
    level of the tank to ensure proper fuel supply (refer to Diagram #1). Clean
    mounting area by removing all rust paint and grease, surface should have a shiny
    appearance when correctly done. Use the pump mounting bracket as a template,
    drill two 7/32’’ holes. Next use the supplied self tapping bolts and star washers to
    secure the pump, and ground lead to the frame. Always use a location that
    enables you to add the safety nuts provided. Install the supplied filter in the
    pump inlet and outlet using thread sealer, tighten to 10-ft-lbs.

    Now install the hose to the inlet side of the pump using automotive quality
    hose clamps. Always replace hose with approved fuel line. Some tank outlets
    may have a size of 3/8’’ instead of the supplied 5/16’’ fittings. You may need to
    purchase one 3/8’’ barb x 1/8’’ NPT and the correct length of 3/8’’ approved fuel
    line. Install the correct size neoprene fuel line from the outlet port on the fuel
    pump to the factory metal fuel line going to the engine bay. (Never run rubber
    fuel line from rear of vehicle to the front) If no fuel line exists, fabricate hard line
    from pump to engine bay. This pump is for negative ground systems only!
    Make sure to use the red lead for 12 volt power and the black lead for ground!
    Remember the ground lead connection is just as important as the positive lead.
    The RED positive lead needs to be connected to switched ignition terminal. Make
    sure a 5 amp fuse or in-line fuse holder is utilized. Use only quality automotive
    grade electrical cable, minimum of 16 gauge, 14 gauge if wire run is over 20 feet.
    Ensure that all connections are secured with a good solder or quality crimp-type
    connector. Be sure connections are sealed from the elements.

    Finally protect the cable from abrasion with Mr. Gasket part number 4500
    flexible tubing. If not using as a booster pump for the existing mechanical
    pump, a longer fuel line will need to be installed from the metal frame line to
    the carburetor. Use only gasoline rated fuel line, be sure to route away from
    exhaust. A fuel regulator is recommended like the adjustable Mr. Gasket #9710 as
    well as a filter close to the carburetor like the Mr. Gasket #9706,9747, and the #9745.

    Inspect and tighten all connections before start up. Turn the key to the on
    position to prime, leave on for ten seconds then turn off. Inspect for fuel leaks.
    If leaks are detected re-tighten clamps. Vehicle should now start. Let the vehicle
    run for several seconds, turn off and re-check for leaks. Check pump and fuel
    line connections and filter every 5,000 miles. Remember an electric fuel pump
    is very efficient pushing fuel, it’s very inefficient at pulling fuel, always locate the
    pump nearest to the fuel supply as possible. NEVER INSTALL IN THE ENGINE BAY.

    http://www.mr-gasket.com/pdf/12S_42S.pdf


    Not stated is the need to keep the pump wet. From my experience and discussion with Mr. Gasket tech - do not run dry! If you go to the link you will find an illustration which suggests an 45 degree up mounting arrangement. Seems this would tend to keep fuel in the pump even at a very low fuel level.

    Good luck!

  2. #582
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    Default

    Where do you go for a pump that is rated for marine use as in USCG and UL approved?
    Anyone know who made the pump for the SST engines?

  3. #583
    Team Member Detroit Whitey's Avatar
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    Default

    i have been running a BRP fuel pump for years no issues still going

  4. #584
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    Thanks Detroit W
    I found this 388444 but obsolete? Was it the Holley one?
    Got a number?



    I forgot to mention the sst60 manual does a fuel flow test...

    They say put 1 main jet of your engine into the outllet of your regulator so you can set the pressure to 4-6psi?
    EDIT> Also found this 3854620 the stern drive low pressure electric?
    anyone ussed one of these?

  5. #585
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    haa guys,,, want to ask a question,,,was your stock/old fuel system dropping off that much at wide open throttle... did ya test it?? ie pressure check.. before trying the new pumps etc????...

  6. #586
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    Default Fuel delivery

    Quote Originally Posted by formeone View Post
    haa guys,,, want to ask a question,,,was your stock/old fuel system dropping off that much at wide open throttle... did ya test it?? ie pressure check.. before trying the new pumps etc????...
    All should be aware the factory diaphram fuel pump was designed with stock porting and exhaust. I didn't instrument until way too many pistons were sacrificed. That's why you see two pumps on all my manual start engines.

  7. #587
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    Default Pistons/////new rods

    I HAVE .020's, .030's &.040's LEFT. I HAVE SOME NEW RODS AND JUST ORDERED 30 SETS OF WRIST PIN BRGS. TODAY( 8/5). MOSTLY 20&40'S THOUGH. DON'T KNOW WHEN THE NEXT ORDER WILL BE IF EVER.

    RODS HAVE BEEN GROUPED IN LOTS OF 3(WITHIN ONE GRAM WEIGHT).

    850----- YOU CAN RUN THESE IN ANY 49 BLOCK. WOULDN'T ADVISE THE 2 INTAKE PORT 55 H.P. BUT ALL THE OTHERS (SOME 60,ALL65,70,&75 MOTORS) WILL WORK.

    LET ME KNOW IF I CAN HELP--------------- THANKS PHIL 843-446-7767 cell

  8. #588
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tim Kurcz View Post
    All should be aware the factory diaphram fuel pump was designed with stock porting and exhaust. I didn't instrument until way too many pistons were sacrificed. That's why you see two pumps on all my manual start engines.
    Tim - do you know of any small ELECTRIC (for remote mounting) fuel pressure gauge with a range up to 5 psi? I want to use 2 crankcase pressure operated pumps on a 4-cyl Force to independantly feed 2 large OMC 2barrel carbs. rgds Wolfgang

  9. #589
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    Default Mr Gasket 12S

    Wolfgang & others,

    The best value is still the Mr. Gasket 12S micro vane pump. It delivers 4-7PSI @ 32 GPH using only 2A (12V). Mr Gasket tech explains it is a pusher pump, not designed to pull. Be sure to mount it low and do not let it run dry. Good luck!

    PS It's always best to use an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. Delivery from any electric or diaphram pumps you use should be checked at peak RPM with cockpit mounted guage (even if temporary). I'm using the Mr. Gasket 0-15 PSI liquid filled guage - unable to find anything smaller for reasonable $$$.

    Tim

  10. #590
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    Thank you Tim.I am not familiar with that gauge. Have you got a part no.? Does that mean you "plumb"
    a 4mm pipe from near the carbs all the way to the steering wheel? rgds Wolfgang

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