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Thread: Old HotRodder

  1. #51
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    Default 40 hp Johnson

    The first year 40hp engine(1960) had a weak crank. Johnson offerred to replace all of the powerheads under warrantee with the next year's powerhead with a stronger crank. Some people did; some didn't.

    The two little valves are crankcase puddle drains. The lower seal is carbon. It has an o-ring inside that should be replaced. If the carbon itself is not broken or scarred it can be reused.

  2. #52
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mac19f View Post
    The two little valves are crankcase puddle drains.
    Thanks Greg

    I thought that's what those are, but not being an expert on that motor, didn't want to say so. Is that what made these motors famous for leaving a sheen on the water?
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  3. #53
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    Thanks Greg. That's almost obvious when you look at it and think. It doesn't vent to the atmosphere Sam, I think the oil slick came from running 25 to 1. There's a ton of carbon build-up in this one. Well I got a bunch of Dremel work to do. Ahhhh the smell of grinding cast iron. It's right up there with resin and nitro.

  4. #54
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    It goes down into the leg doesn't it?
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  5. #55
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    There's a cover and gasket. I think it comes out, and goes back into the intake side.

  6. #56
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    Quote Originally Posted by 50sFlash View Post
    There's a cover and gasket. I think it comes out, and goes back into the intake side.
    Thats the idea, to burn it off in the top cyl. [I think]
    The bore is 3 3/16, stroke 2 3/4. @ 43.9ci 4-5G run range 40hp @ 4500. Gears- 12:21 dont think there was an option, 10 3/8 dia X 13 1/4 pitch hi-est pitch in book but I think you could do better. Point gap 0.020- all, plug gap 0.030 [ I found the book but it doesnt cover the 35, probably-mostly the same.

  7. #57
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    Default Setting OMC points

    When setting points on any 1951-1976 OMC, you will get the best job by not using a feeler guage.

    You are best using the factory timing fixtures and snugging them on the crank.

    Then you use a timing light, i.e. a flash light that needs alligator clips and wire to make a connection. You clip one wire to the mag plate, then the other wire to the screw on the point where the condenser wires attach. Before you turn on the juice, disconnect the ground wire to the coil and leave it hang. You don't want to run any juice through the coils. If you cannot find this type of light, an electrical testing meter works too, I just like the light better.

    Rotate the engine so the point set you are gapping are the point set for the correct cylinder. Place the pointer of the timing fixture between the cast in hash marks on the front of the mag plate. Screw the cam screw on the points back or fourth to get the light to flicker. Then once the light goes off, move the crank gently back and fourth over the hash marks and see where the light goes out. Ideally, you want no light as the timing fixture exits the hash marks.

    Follow the same thing on the next set of points. Remove the fixture, screw back down the coil grounds and torque the flywheel back down.

    I have two complete sets of these fixtures from OMC, and there is a guy who makes them on the AOMCI website for $35 each. Not only will they save time, they will be far more accurate than any feeler guages you use.
    Bill Schwab
    Dirty Deck Brewing
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  8. #58
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoontz View Post
    When setting points on any 1951-1976 OMC, you will get the best job by not using a feeler guage.

    You are best using the factory timing fixtures and snugging them on the crank.

    Then you use a timing light, i.e. a flash light that needs alligator clips and wire to make a connection. You clip one wire to the mag plate, then the other wire to the screw on the point where the condenser wires attach. Before you turn on the juice, disconnect the ground wire to the coil and leave it hang. You don't want to run any juice through the coils. If you cannot find this type of light, an electrical testing meter works too, I just like the light better.

    Rotate the engine so the point set you are gapping are the point set for the correct cylinder. Place the pointer of the timing fixture between the cast in hash marks on the front of the mag plate. Screw the cam screw on the points back or fourth to get the light to flicker. Then once the light goes off, move the crank gently back and fourth over the hash marks and see where the light goes out. Ideally, you want no light as the timing fixture exits the hash marks.

    Follow the same thing on the next set of points. Remove the fixture, screw back down the coil grounds and torque the flywheel back down.

    I have two complete sets of these fixtures from OMC, and there is a guy who makes them on the AOMCI website for $35 each. Not only will they save time, they will be far more accurate than any feeler guages you use.
    It is a little touch & go [do it again] w/a feeler but at least on the 40 you can do it thru the acc. hole.... didnt know you were a teeker Bill

  9. #59
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    My father built himself some tools like this and built for OMC motors, some of the long pointer type tools Merc supplied to their dealers. He was not impressed with the results over using a feeler gage.
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


  10. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoontz View Post
    You are best using the factory timing fixtures and snugging them on the crank.

    I have two complete sets of these fixtures from OMC, and there is a guy who makes them on the AOMCI website for $35 each. Not only will they save time, they will be far more accurate than any feeler guages you use.
    Bill, We used a beeper, or an Ohm meter to set the timing on the dragster. I understand that. Who sells the fixture? or do you want to part with one of yours. (sound like ya got one to crap on, and another one to cover it up with) Does that hold the advance plate at the right spot for timing, or just setting the points?

    Jerry

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