How Fast Will A Quincy 6 Go ?

[R Austin]

Just to shut Steve’s piehole... As most of you could hear, the engine never cleaned out too well. So we pulled the carbs off to check things out. We found 2 floats and a sinker. Dad looked around his stuff and found 2 floatless carbs, and no Carter floats. So I guess we are set for four cylinder engines but not for a six. Rich Fuchslin may be able to help. I just gotta call him, also he did offer to dial in the “Float” carbs for us. So at this point I need a float, possibly two, before we run it again.

Steve, See you in Chicago this week?

J-Dub

I have a few Carter floats if you do not find what you need. That is the problem that if been having trying to make mine run. Floats sinking or needles will not seal. Just to much vibration going on for floats and tank is to far forward for floatless.

I have acquired a set of Mikunis like Walgave ran.

Dick Austin

[Bob Rusnak]

I have a few Carter floats if you do not find what you need. That is the problem that if been having trying to make mine run. Floats sinking or needles will not seal. Just to much vibration going on for floats and tank is to far forward for floatless.

I have acquired a set of Mikunis like Walgave ran.

Dick Austin

What about float less Carters. I know Bill Fales ran them and worked for him. We also ran float less Catrers on out alky 6 deflector. Very simple to do.....Bob N-96

[J-Dub]

I was expecting to have float-less carbs on this engine, but as I got to the bottom of the box there were only the float style carbs in there. But my go-to guy Rich, runs with floats. I must say this is my first Quincy build, and it’s a good thing I have unlimited minutes on my phone plan! And we haven't been to the lake yet!

J-Dub

[Bill Van Steenwyk]

J-Dub:

Best I remember with my couple of years experience with Carter floatless carbs on a C and D Flathead, the removal of the floats and conversion to floatless is a fairly simple procedure. Good fuel pumps are a requirement of course, and best I remember large return lines back to tank to eliminate any restriction so as to have plenty of fuel going thru the carb. As mentioned, you don't want to go too far with the return lines back to tank.

Basically what you end up with is a metering/mixing valve with the high speed needle for adjustment and no worries about too rich/too lean from floats bouncing around or sinking. I am sure you could find something of the modern type that would work, but the Carter floatless are cheap, trouble free and sounds like you have enough to do the job, especially since the reason for the project is straight-a-way runs, i.e. no turns or competition water to upset the floats

I am sure Gene East, Jerry Peterson, Stan (Butch) Leavendusky, all who frequent this thread (Jerry of course had a 6 and set a straight-a-way record with it) could help you with some advise about how to do the modification, and I have a Merc Fuel pump in the basement if you need one that I would donate to the cause. I might even have a Carter that has been converted. I will check tomorrow.

I feel sure with all the interest in this project there are lots of folks that would be willing and anxious to help in whatever way they could. Luckily a lot of them with experience with the Flathead's are still vertical, but like some of the WWII vets, time is moving on!!

[Bob Rusnak]

I was expecting to have float-less carbs on this engine, but as I got to the bottom of the box there were only the float style carbs in there. But my go-to guy Rich, runs with floats. I must say this is my first Quincy build, and it’s a good thing I have unlimited minutes on my phone plan! And we haven't been to the lake yet!

J-Dub

I may have a float less Carter laying around. There are two on my 44 Looper, one on a 'B" and another on a "A". I can always pull one off and send on to you for a sample if it will help. It is so simple to convert. Two 5/16 fuel line fittings are required and a stand off piece of copper tubing for the fuel level. Everything inside the the carb is removed. We used three fuel pumps, one for each carb on the six we ran. I have two on the 44 looper. ....Bob N-96

[Gene East]

Probably the best (and easiest way) would be simply send J-Dub a float bowl to look at.

I don't have one. Someone out there does have one. Wouldn't it be great to know you helped prove the sweetest sounding engine in the history of outboard racing could still be the fastest after all these years!

Obviously J-Dub has the capability to do the job or he never would have had the success he's had in this restoration and/or his racing career.

I've known very few successful drivers who didn't know his way around a shop.

J-Dub isn't one of these kind, otherwise Steve wouldn't give him so much crap.

Be sure to run a SEPERATE return line from EACH carb directly to the tank.

No splices and/or elbows in the return lines (although we did use an elbow on the bottom of the bowl for clearance). Use a seperate fitting on the tank for each return line! Make the lines as short and direct to the tank as possible and still be able to turn the engine.

Since this is a record attempt and you won't be making any Hard Lefts keep the lines short, neat and direct.

That goes without saying. I've seen your plumbing on the fuel system. I know you don't/won't do anything half-assed.

Good luck, I believe 125 MPH is possible with the right boat, right set-up and the right driver. I think you're the man to get it done.

Will you be running solo or have a deck-rider? I'd love to ride with you if I wasn't so old and fat.

[Gene East]

J-Dub,I talked with Paul Christner and Jim Schoch about floatless carbs for your six banger today.

They both agree with my recommendations with one exception. Since I left Quincy Welding, a lot of guys have gone to a lower C/G by dropping the tower height. By so doing this sometimes causes the bottom carb to load up.

It is important that the return line has as much drop as possible. If the carb is near transom height or lower, you may have problems. Fuel like water, will not run uphill.

We did a little brain storming and came up with 2 ideas.

#1. Mount a dump tank on the back of the transom.

#2: Mount a small 12 volt pump on the back of the transom to pump overflow back into the tank.

Or course, you could always dump raw fuel into the lake if you have large enough tank.

JUST KIDDING! The Environmentalists are going to crap their pants just hearing this thing.

We turned stand pipes out of aluminum round stock to replace the floats. Since Jim was our carb man I asked if he remembered how high we set the stand pipe in the bowl.

He did not; however, he had 1 in his parts bins after all these years. Went right to it. I have in my hot chubby hands.

E-mail me you P.O. address and it will be in the mail tomorrow.

I was told to tell you to screw the needle valve all the way out before you try to remove the bowl. I refuse to insult your intelligence by doing so. Some of our customers probably needed to be told however! Those types are parts sellers best friends.

eastgene@yahoo.com

[Mark75H]

I think Fales solved the outside the transom fuel return by using the original pressure pulse ports on the motor to mount a pump that baled back into the boat from the bottom carb. Same idea as an electric pump, but simpler in some ways.

[Frank Volker]

Gene,
I seem to recall the following about the mods to the Model N:

1. The throat was reamed -- FB was larger dia than the FA, but I don't recall diameters.
2. The high-speed dump tube height was different on FB and FA. I think the FA was 9/16" and the FB was 1/2".

I believe the F44 ran the same carb as the FD, but not positive.
Jim can no doubt give better numbers on this.

Frank V.

[Mark75H]

Gene,
I seem to recall the following about the mods to the Model N:

1. The throat was reamed -- FB was larger dia than the FA, but I don't recall diameters.
2. The high-speed dump tube height was different on FB and FA. I think the FA was 9/16" and the FB was 1/2".

I believe the F44 ran the same carb as the FD, but not positive.
Jim can no doubt give better numbers on this.

Frank V.

I have some of those reamed carbs J-Dub is welcome to them if they will help. I have at least one stand pipe overflow bowl, but I think I also have at least one that was made by someone who didn't know what they were doing and it won't work.