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Thread: Rat motor mod question

  1. #11
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skoontz View Post
    The 437 cc John/Evinrude snowmobiles had a hop up kit where to added a new intake and a V-4 2 barrel carb. Could be a good solution, but, you might need to tweek the exhaust to get the full gain from more juice.

    I had another thought taking from the A/AXS/J racing rule book...So you can't find a small bore two barrel.... Why not make your own choke collar
    (restrictor plate) so if you need or have the lattitude for more juice, open up the plate for a very small cost or labor, and proceed.
    I like the 1st idea, the motor in Q is opened up & is about 500cc. I ran it hard yesterday & its the fastest of my 31.8s so far. Im thinkin the next move will be to $pring for Boyesens since experiments have indicated they should work well. Do ya happen to know where I can look up the snowmobile kit?

  2. #12
    - Skoontz's Avatar
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    You would need to find a snowmoblie junk yard, or, someone who has one on a shelf. The intake would be worthless to you, it is a 90° curved intake that was designed to biolt on a Johnson Rampage or Evinrude Bobcat snowmobile. The motor was a 180° opposed air cooled twin.

    If I am not mistaken, the carb was off a 125HP V-4, I'm not sure of the bore.
    Bill Schwab
    Dirty Deck Brewing
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  3. #13
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    I have done numerous 2 cycle engine mods and have set many records. I have noticed that the 2cycles like the ports eyebrowed and raise the intake up a tad bit. Open the exhaust ports and you should see a diffrence

    ...The same applies to the sleds...however they like big exhaust numbers!!

  4. #14
    Team Member Sam La Banco's Avatar
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    Hey Johnson mod 50,

    you need to check out the 31.8 cuber in the History section on Page 22.

  5. #15
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sam La Banco View Post
    Hey Johnson mod 50,

    you need to check out the 31.8 cuber in the History section on Page 22.
    10-4, Thanks

  6. #16
    modifiedoutboard OUTBOARDER's Avatar
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    Default expeiriment

    heres an expeirment
    .040" washer between reed stop and reed may require longer screw.
    then try the 1.5"x1.25 venturi again.

    The reed sop adjustment will help gulp down some more air and help acceleration.

  7. #17
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JohnsonM50 View Post
    10-4, Thanks
    Sam, Ive been lookin at outboard history for awhile-p-22 What titles it under? Thanks.

  8. #18
    Team Member JohnsonM50's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by OUTBOARDER View Post
    heres an expeirment
    .040" washer between reed stop and reed may require longer screw.
    then try the 1.5"x1.25 venturi again.

    The reed sop adjustment will help gulp down some more air and help acceleration.
    I did alot of intake exp. work inc. bent reed dampers.That made the biggest difference since a gearfoot till a reed broke. Expensive mistake even tho it could-a done worse 1 set of Boyesens are pricey but still less.

  9. #19
    modifiedoutboard OUTBOARDER's Avatar
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    Default steel reeds

    Quote Originally Posted by JohnsonM50 View Post
    I did alot of intake exp. work inc. bent reed dampers.That made the biggest difference since a gearfoot till a reed broke. Expensive mistake even tho it could-a done worse 1 set of Boyesens are pricey but still less.
    ouch!!! one reason why the O.E.s set the reed stops!


    If you really want to get crazy try a leaf blower and a shot of Blue Thunder available at your favorit hobby shop. O ya just take the main jets out

  10. #20
    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Reed stop correct name = reed vibration reducer
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


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