I originally thought it was a woodruff key too, but things don't look right. There seems to be no slot in the inner race, or sleeve or whatever that is, and see how eccentric it is over the shaft? Perhaps it's some type of wedge. If so you could set the bearing on something that would allow the shaft to pass through and press or whack the shaft from the other side. A picture of the back side might make it more clear how to remove the shaft.
The way it's set up now seems to me would create a vibration.
You're right, the photo is throwing me. Everything is concentric except the shaft as it appears in the photo. It looks like the shaft is touching the black ring at the 2:00 position and has the widest gap at 8:00., and so I don't get it how the shaft could serve as an inner race. It might be an optical illusion,or something else in the photo throwing me off, but it doesn't look right.
Hi,
Here is few more pictures.. Need help for deassembly
E: Pictures added
I think the angle of the photo is throwing everyone off. The shaft has (bearing) a slide fit through the race and the key is just a bit off center at this angle. Pretty straightforward after you look closely.
Charley Bradley
New photos more angled.
Cylinder head goes today to machinist, so I need quick answer, please
Theres 2mm gap/space between head and piston, is ok to reduce it to 1,2mm? (cc'ing 0.8mm off.)
I measured both cylinders compression pressures and they are both 100 psi with cold engine.
Prop end of shaft is stil on it's place, how to remove it? No help for heating like another end.
First off your cold compression is low at 100. A solid 102 should pull 125- 130, so you are starting off low. Before the head I would check the cylinderes for true and fix that with oversize if needed and a new set of rings. When compression up to standard run it then pull the head a shave if desired. One thing at a time is a rule with mods.
As far as the the amount to trim can't answer that. First cc the combustion chambers to determine where you are at. Also note that if you trim too much you will upset the squelch area that is important to the loop combustion process. Others more familiar with modding the 102 will have to advise you on hoe much to shave off.
The head on the 102 is easy to pull off so no big deal to do it after other work.
Have you aligned the exhaust, cylinder block and crankcase to be dead flat to mate with the lower unit tower? Are all bolts properly torqued? See the manual for instructions at Rick Montoya's site.
I have motor almost completely disassembled now. I have dremel and it has lot of job soon Theres quite lot angles to round, casting is rough and bumpy. If I have go oversized pistons, do i have to bore cylinders? Manual says piston ring gap has be about 0.8mm but where I measure it
Also noticed that all cylinder holes are unfinished sharp edges with 90 angle. There should be bevels or roundings to save piston rings.
I take more pics parts later today, before do anything else than planing the head.
Where to get power reeds or material to make them?
There are currently 2 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 2 guests)
Bookmarks