Ron Hill thanked for this posthupiveneilija, Ron Hill liked this post
It might be!
But yes, that 2blade ill give it a chance when get properly hubbed. It has been on my boat years ago. Went about 55kn with different motor back then. Its 25 now but dont know how it slips or dont so cant compare yet that pitch on my current prop. Have to get on water with that, then will see how it goes. Probably dont work because its 2 blade. 😉
Stay tuned!
We don't run a torque tab on our little race boats, depending on set up if you can avoid having to run one you experience less drag, if you need one make sure you only make it large enough for you desired results. Prop walk is usually not solved with a torque tab you can cure prop walk sometimes by increasing the height or running a smaller diameter prop
Propwalk itself can be dangerous to outboard racers especially in the flat bottom types like hydro's & runabouts. With a left rotation prop & a turn fin or chicken wing [oval racers] if the prop throws the aft to the left it pits the fin against the surface in the wrong direction. This can violently barrel roll the boat stuffing the driver in it's path. It happened to me, I held tight but ended up sliding across the water anyway. I don't know how that would affect a V bottom but my guess is not well. I've seen a few mod hydros with extended skegs that seem to work well.
On a 16_17ft light deep v (talking proper deep v, narrow hull). Prop walk is lethal. Especially running in waves. Plus if your doing lot of straight line 10 miles plus you need some sort of trim find or tab. A torque tab on the skeg will not slow you down it helps increase speed, instead of having engine turning towards the right ,the tab let's engine stay straight. That combined with convex skeg it what offshore racers have done for about 40 years plus.
And less strain on steering.
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Just came from boating,57.8kn not bad. Goes strait, no need to steer but just little movement on wheel. Other hand on the trim button😂. Steeringwheel is that much on the left because i put it 2 splines side if you know what i mean.
Engine is on line with boat, wheel is 10 'clock and that is fullspeed.
Yeah I know what you mean by 10 o,clock..
I would 100% put torque tab on if running with prop level with bottom. IF you catch up another boat cross his wash and the front dips a fraction you be pouting the wrong way in less than a heart beat. The prop can grab like a tyre on tarmac and spin the boat round so fast it's impossible to stop it. Hopefully you will never have it happen.
I know, I started slow.. paddling lol, then the evolution of a lifetime. Once you're into performance boating it all changes. At that point it's wise to have become a seasoned test driver learning to put a craft thru it's paces & recognize the potentials of trouble before they happen instead of playing cowboy to find out sooner while less in control. Especially in pleasure boating this is true, passengers, other boaters, rescue options etc. Racing is like that, it's drivers who seem to go all out but really have learned to push their equipment to the edge while most importantly maintaining strict control. The next boats can be close & there's little room for error. It's no longer a joy ride but a thrill ride then. Either way I'm sure hupiveneilija knows it well, pays attention & is on top of his game.
hupiveneilija thanked for this postpaavojaelvis liked this post
2 blade pop don't have enough blade area for the 2.42 big gear case 56.
Will get a move on, but nothing like srx or 24 pitch raker.
The higher the prop more tenancy to walk, it acts like paddle wheel when real high (surfacing).
Next is sad but true, approx 12% slip, ~7800rpm. Only two blades.
https://youtu.be/-B550K_7w2U
Near end was turning slightly to starboard where the route goes, started sliding loose but managed to keep it in the right direction! 😓
https://youtu.be/3Z0kcnFOufE
This was speed run 😬.
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