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Schiada
08-09-2012, 05:33 PM
I am working on a 20H and have a exhaust cover that needs a pipe or pipes?
Here is a photo of the housing. So,what did the pips/pipe look like?
The housing is a Quincy.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05274.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05273.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05272.jpg

David_L6
08-09-2012, 05:38 PM
That doesn't need a pipe. That's the way you run it - open.

Schiada
08-09-2012, 05:57 PM
Their must be more? their are 2 bolt holes. It must mount ????:confused:

Bill Van Steenwyk
08-09-2012, 06:05 PM
that went with that exhaust system. There was a cast aluminum cover that had raised fins on it like on an air cooled cylinder. For closed up quiet lake running where you had noise problems you ran with the cover on which was secured with two screws and the exhaust went down the tower housing as was intended. The place where the screws went is obvious.

When you wanted to wake everyone up or go to a race where noise was OK, you took it off by removing the two screws. The piece was made by Quincy as someone already stated, but to my knowledge it never came with pipes or had any type filler block with it that would allow pipes.

Gene East is the Quincy expert on this site and I am sure he will chime in.

ADD: Lots of guys used to have the waffle pattern of that cover burned into their upper biceps on the outside of the arm from letting their arm be where it should not be when carrying the boat out of the water.

Ed Hatch
08-09-2012, 06:17 PM
Believe the item pre-dated the 20H and was originally marketed to the KG7H user. Complete and partial examples of this item show up on Ebay on a fairly regular basis. If noise police inhabit your lake then not worth the hassle.

Schiada
08-09-2012, 07:07 PM
Thanks!! I get it now.

Ed, the noise police are everywhere!!!!!:D "F" them if they can't take it! :p I will see you in JAIL!:eek:

Maybe I will build a pipe system so the sound is behind the boat?? Out the side?that would make me look to see if I was being passed? :p:p:p

A/B Speedliner
08-10-2012, 04:39 AM
Rick
Frank Erion makes a repro cover for the dump stack, call him 289-720-1337
David

Gene East
08-10-2012, 04:59 AM
Not much I can add that hasn't already been said.

Ed is correct, this manifold/stack/deflector (whatever you choose to call it) pre-dates the 20-H.

You'll notice the housing slopes downward to clear the integral fuel tank of the KG-4 and KG-7 Mercurys.

Quincy Welding sold hundreds of these during the early 1950s. More of them were installed on stock fishing motors than were ever fitted on racing motors.

As Bill said, the 2 mounting holes were for a plate that could be easily opened for noise or closed when the game warden or police were around.

All hot rodders remember uncapping "Lake Pipes" on their cars. Same principle!

I like to tell a story about my Dad; George William "Bill" East, concerning these exhaust adaptors.

Dad was deputy marshall in our home town of La Grange, MO, a small town just north of Quincy.

He received a call from an elderly woman complaining about 3 boys in racing boats making a lot of noise on the river and she wanted him to arrest them.

Dad responded with 3 reasons why he couldn't do that.

1. "I have no jurisdiction on the Mississippi River"!

2. "My boat isn't fast enough to catch them"!

3. "One of those boys is my son"!

Schiada
08-10-2012, 07:09 AM
Gene,that is too funny!
Dad responded with 3 reasons why he couldn't do that.

1. "I have no jurisdiction on the Mississippi River"!

2. "My boat isn't fast enough to catch them"!

3. "One of those boys is my son"!

That makes me think maybe it is KG7 ? Will need to take a closer look.
That is a problem with a motor in a box.:eek:
Randy

Gene East
08-10-2012, 08:33 AM
That will fit most 2 cyl. Mercs. KG-4&7, MK-15,20,25. It will NOT fit the 22 or 30 ci Mercs or the real small 2 bangers.

Post a pix of your cyl. block and we can ID

Schiada
08-10-2012, 07:56 PM
Here are the photos of the block. It must be a "K" motor.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05277.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05276.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05275.jpg

Thanks of any and all info!! Randy:o

Gene East
08-11-2012, 05:05 AM
The crankshaft and the carb. opening in the crankcase are indicators this is NOT a 20-H.

Very nice looking components however.

Good luck on your rebuild!

Skoontz
08-11-2012, 01:11 PM
Not much I can add that hasn't already been said.

Ed is correct, this manifold/stack/deflector (whatever you choose to call it) pre-dates the 20-H.

You'll notice the housing slopes downward to clear the integral fuel tank of the KG-4 and KG-7 Mercurys.

Quincy Welding sold hundreds of these during the early 1950s. More of them were installed on stock fishing motors than were ever fitted on racing motors.

As Bill said, the 2 mounting holes were for a plate that could be easily opened for noise or closed when the game warden or police were around.

All hot rodders remember uncapping "Lake Pipes" on their cars. Same principle!

I like to tell a story about my Dad; George William "Bill" East, concerning these exhaust adaptors.

Dad was deputy marshall in our home town of La Grange, MO, a small town just north of Quincy.

He received a call from an elderly woman complaining about 3 boys in racing boats making a lot of noise on the river and she wanted him to arrest them.

Dad responded with 3 reasons why he couldn't do that.

1. "I have no jurisdiction on the Mississippi River"!

2. "My boat isn't fast enough to catch them"!

3. "One of those boys is my son"!

Gene, do you remmebr the Lake pipes with the covers on low tension springs, so when you goose the motor, the cap opened, then clsoed at the lights for when the cops were around? Add steel pack mufflers and you were styling on a '50 Merc....

Gene East
08-11-2012, 02:53 PM
Yeah,

I had a '50 Ford instead of a Mercury.

It was somewhere between pink and purple.

Man, I loved that car!

A/B Speedliner
08-11-2012, 03:22 PM
The lower bearing carrier is that of a KG7, the 20H were straight across the front and a rounded triangle and there is no stripe cast into the starboard side of the cylinders on the outside of the block.
David

Schiada
08-11-2012, 08:46 PM
After looking a the parts list list,my reed block has no bearing. So,KG7?

Gene East
08-12-2012, 05:36 AM
Yes!

That was my point in referring to the crankshaft.

A/B Speedliner also made interesting observations in his post ruling out 20-H.

Basically the cylinders could be reworked to near 20-H specs, but the crank is totally different.

You have excellent components to build a KG-7!

Aeroliner
08-12-2012, 07:16 AM
Is this a small rod engine. If you post a photo of the rods we might be able to identify it better. There were also KF-7 engines that looked fairly much the same. Rods are a good indicator.

Alan

Gene East
08-12-2012, 05:48 PM
Didn't the KF models have fewer reeds and a smaller carb??

Bill Van Steenwyk
08-12-2012, 07:16 PM
Don't know about the KF Models, but the Wizard Super 10 (if they were similar) sold by Western Auto during this time frame had a four reed center main (the reed cage just did not have four of the holes drilled or machined in the cage, don't remember now whether they were front or back) and a smaller carb, or at least different, as we refitted another carb that was the same as the KG7 to bring it to Merc spec plus using an 8 reed center main to allow it to run with the KG7 in the B Family Runabout class I started in in the mid 50's. The advantage to using the Wizard was even with the required parts change out to bring it to Merc spec, it was still less expensive than the equivalent Merc, and to help a poor boy along, Western Auto offered a credit plan directly with the Company.

I seem to remember the crank was also much "beefier" (although that was a long time ago) than the one shown in the photo's in this thread, and the reed block had roller bearings on the center main. The intake port covers on the Wizard did not have a "deflector" made into them as the Merc's did either, but that was easily fixed by using the Merc equivalent.

Schiada
08-12-2012, 07:57 PM
Will post rod and crank photos in the AM. Thanks for the help.
Also what starter,fuel tank,mid sopport? Nothing in the box! :o:eek:

Schiada
08-13-2012, 09:31 AM
The rods are marked MA-3922 F
The carb is AJ 32A
http://i916.photobucket.com/albums/ad5/schiadab85/DSC05278.jpg

Aeroliner
08-13-2012, 12:10 PM
Looking at the photo you have the small rods. It appears that this is a KE-7 block and crankcase engine. I would not run this engine hard as the rods will let go quite easily. I would try to find a later crankcase and use the heavy 20-H rods without the oil holes.

Alan

Mark78H
11-23-2012, 10:49 PM
I am working on a 20H and have a exhaust cover that needs a pipe or pipes?
Here is a photo of the housing. So,what did the pips/pipe look like?
The housing is a Quincy.
http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05274.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05273.jpg

http://i257.photobucket.com/albums/hh232/schiada/DSC05272.jpg

I have this unit complete with elbow and pipes, will post apic for you tomorrow.

Mark78H
11-27-2012, 09:52 PM
Here are some pics of the complete unit...5145851459

Schiada
11-28-2012, 07:17 AM
Thanks for posting the photo!
Randy