A 15 ci Looper
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A 15 ci Looper
4 cylinder C looper images
Looking at the inside, from the crankshaft toward the head
More ports, from the other side (head side looking toward the crank)
It sure would be nice to get a line on those two swift hydro's on the top of the first trailer pic.. Any Ideas or leads anyone with a close up shot of the boats.
Great job on the site Ron and party.
Regards,
That "C" Looper on the ORANGE DeSilva is Freddy Hauenstein's. This was one of, if not the first Loop "C" to be shipped from Quincy...Right after this motor was built, they came out with the larger megaphones, which OLD Fred never bought.....
Maybe, Frank could give us some history on the small megaphones compared to the larger???
They blue "CRANK PLATE" is a Lon Stevens piece. and the mid section is a CLASSIC Lon Stevens weld job. Freddy liked those Starnes lower units, he even ran them on his Konig...
The Hauenstein's never liked this DeSilva, until I borrowed it. Seems the first think I do when I borrow a boat is to flatten the bottom. I borrowed this boat wor the 1967 Winternationals and won with it, then took it on to Phoenix to the Playboy Club/Schlitz Beer Race and won there... and I finished second in the free for all...
My "D" Konig beat the Cracker Box, the 280 Hydro, the Super Stock Runabout, the F Hydro, but not the SK...I was close on the start, at leasat that is what George May told eveyone when they wanted to protest... I got $250 for running second...
It was one of those deals, OUTBOARDS against Inboards...five laps...I jumped them at the start, and only one guy caught me...but no one was impressed, little outboard making NO noise...
Gave the boat back to Fred, in the Spring of '68. He wanted to know what I did to the boat to make it run so well... I told him....After that, Freddy listened to me, SOMETIMES!!!!!
I'm taking apart my D looper to start a rebuild and I noticed the exhaust ports are different. Three have dividers and one doesn't. The elbows are different also. What I have is : Two have dividers in the block and none in the elbow, one has a divider in the elbow only and one has dividers in both. Do you think it was set up this way? Am I missing dividers? Thanks.... :confused:
The very early blocks ('64/'65) had square exhaust ports and no dividers in the elbow or the block. Later, we began putting a divider in the block with some systems also having a short divider in the elbow. After we installed the dyno, we tested several configurations of divider/pipe/no-divider/etc. The decision was made to machine the divider into the block. This resulted in rounding of the inside corners of the exhaust ports and stiffening of the center rib. The old square-port blocks were the result of using an end-cutter to machine the ex ports. This left the larger bore engines ( FB and FD ) with very small center rib cross-sections. This section would sometimes crack. No real performance hit, but it didn't look good. We were also concerned about the exhaust blasting directly onto the adjacent cylinder's piston.
After we installed the dyno ( early '66 or so ), we got the exhaust system down pretty well.
Frank
What I have is a mismatch all in the same motor. It is a machined slot in the exhaust port and the elbows. It looks to be a flat plate in the block and sharp in the elbows at the end. To be missing in the motor and have it in the elbow, I assume would serve no purpose. Correct? As long as I have some plates in each do I add them where they are misssing? What type aluminum is used?
Just to be clear on this the 4 exhaust ports on one 1965 D looper go as follows: one port has divider in elbow only
one has dividers in both block and elbow
two have dividers in the block only
Thanks...Steve
I was going to post some photos on the "other site" that dumped the Looper forum. I hope to show some of the internal photos for anyone that has never seen the inside of a looper. I myself have never rebuilt one so I will be asking a lot of questions. ( Just to warn you guys ) I just bought a small sand blast cabinet to clean up all the silver paint sprayed on the motor. I'm using glass bead and it seems to work well without any apparent damage. I will stay away from any gasket surfaces. 1st question: What is a good way to de-gum the old set up caster oil?