Thought i show you selfmade nose on the way. Fillings made, next little sanding.
Printable View
Thought i show you selfmade nose on the way. Fillings made, next little sanding.
this could be interesting.
what have you used for the filler mixture ?
have you tack welded any little bit of metal onto the case to get the filler to grip onto ?
keep the pics coming on this one
We have typically found that the stock nitro case handled better then an SST60 case on a v bottom, sometimes faster also depending on where the boat ran trim wise.
Make sure you get the cone shape right so it continues to feed the water pick ups.
Cheers,
this gearcase is supposed to be the bigfoot 2.42 20 inch mid
but I did not think the big gearcase had 4 water intakes ?
mine is the big one and only has 3 inlets per side
Yes its a bigfoot. I made that lower hole because i try to go without transom pickup. Will see if i can jack the motor high enough.
After one hour work😊
Nice work.
Thanks👍. Only paint missing.
Also going to make a ring between case and prop to cover the gap.
Looking very good. shape looks nice and no welding been needed !!!
hope this works out good for you. is this a very tough filler to sand down ?
for the prop there was a special omc thrust washer made for the silverstreak/srx props a long time ago that closed the gap a little bit and did not let
exhaust flare out too much over the blades.
I have a 13 3/4x 23 prop the same as that one. but I just have the thrust washer same as you.
When I covered that gap with my black "tincan ring" it was a huge benefit for takeoff. I have also those big holes above A/V plate helping too. Without those mods it was kind of a struggle to get on plane, especially with 2 person.
Because of excessive prop cavitation, right?
Jeff
Yep.
I got exactly the same problem with srx, terrible holeshot, takes ages to get on plane and no chance with 2 people in the boat.
have you seen some of the cups made for props that turn them into semi through hubs ?
I would like to have one of these made to see how the srx would then behave.
I have forgot who made them
here is the original special thrust washer that came with omc silver streak 13 3/4 x 23 .
I think someone on here sent me this pic or might have been on the cream and try forum.
never seen one in the flesh though, this were supposed to make the pull away good and not effect top end. ?
would not take much to make one of these up.
.
DO YOU SELL THESE OR JUST KEEP THEM FOR YOURSELF? Nice pieces.
these are not mine ron, wish they were they are just pics ive managed to get from people on the internet etc.
dont see why they would be hard to make though, especially the thrust washer for the srx that would be very simple to make.
quick run up on a lathe to make the washer and then either drill it out or mill it out..
surprised hill marine dont make these, especially with your cleaver solid hubs.
if you had a spare ordinary thrust washer could simply add the ring to it, it can be fairly deep too as there is plenty of room to play with it.
if you have a drilled exhaust or a snout then no need for these..
The long hub/thrust washer with the slits is a very good idea, can let people have the choice with just the one prop.
.
Also surprised Hill marine does not make these:p
Not yet!
Jeff
Ha ha
dead right there
We have one but don't run it much on our omcs
Some pics of back side and inside. Unfortunately the inside does not have a shoulder on the inside for our omc cleavers, relying on torquing the prop down in order for it not to shift any.
Not sure if Titus had them made or not, ours has his shops name on it.
Attachment 61643Attachment 61642
thats the name of the company I saw them on Titus.
the ones you have are for merc by the look of it, nice clear & good pics of them.
gives a good idea how to make them.
No it was not a site of his, he posted them on a forum and we were talking about this type of thing.
he does go on a few sites.
I talked to Jeff Titus at Reno, Nevada, three years ago, last January, he said he still had several "Slip On" hubs. He said, sales of SST 60 props had dropped way off.
I had Donny Spencer, at West Tech Machine make my "Slip on Hubs' for Nitro cases and V-6 cases. In the days that were, we'd make 25 at a time. Then, when the four blades came in, we stopped "Slotting" them fr the blades. I had six or more of these around here for many years.
This was a V-6 one. I ran one on every MOD VP I ever owned, and I owned 14 and one V-8 boat.
so these were just cast alloy cups then Ron.
how did the thrust stand up to being just alloy ?
I got this on my hands. Someone has done the mod to prop. Think its for a nitro. Diam.12 1/8.
edit; diam.11 1/2
Looks like a Winrace prop that has been messed around with.
is there any names on it .
and is that a added cup or blades been removed then welded back on ?
could look a lot nicer if cleaned up and polished what is the pitch ?
this would let you know where exactly the limiter is on your motor is its less than 22 pitch.
Might look but its not Winrace. if you look closely the barrel has been welded to small hub prop.
Sorry Ron
I meant to write billet and obviously wrote cast doh
is a billet alloy thrust washer going to be ok ? or would it be better to be stainless thrust washer then tig welded to a cup.
surely the cup can simply be cast alloy or thin stainless as its only being used to divert exhaust gases. water pressure there would not be much would it ?
and 6061 T6 is old hat in Europe nowdays, we use the 6082 T6 , Pretty much the same but a bit tougher. dont know what polishes up best though ?
A little update on this. Blowout ring done and in its place. Also only 1 water hole/side, give it a try. If it dont work then go back to the transom p/u.
The ring might work, although it is supposed to be attached to thrust washer, not the gearcase. but I cant see why it should not help.
I have seen plastic rings that clip in that do similar job, but only on small motor, this being screwed on it should be perfect to help the semi cleaver to bite when trying to plane.
The water intake should work if jacking the engine up a touch, BUT if the cone works very good the water will not be anywhere near that as the bullet will
be riding on top of the water surface and being sprayed outwards not upwards .
depends how high you are going to ride the motor
all looks very stuff. , some nice filling work been done there too. will you be making a torque tab for the skeg ?
I hope the ring works good for this propeller, if so I will be making one too.
.
Finally! L/U is done. Im quite satisfied for my work. Think i wetsand it with 1000 and then wax, same thing i did with the boat bottom. Slippery in a right way😊. See how that water intake works.
Looks very nice.
The home made coned front looks perfect, it realy has come out good.
what is the smaller hole for near the 2 exhaust holes ? external water pump fitting, or for flushing attachment.
Very nice result. On my hydro bottoms wax never worked out for me, advice from Bob Wartinger (many hydro many speed records holder) he uses sanded. I use 320 wet in a fore aft direction, runs more controlled and faster on my rigs. I also use sanded gear case and satin finish props. Preference and what works for you.
On its place again!
that looks perfect, the cone looks like its always been there.
very good job, well done.
I made this cone for my own boat many years ago. I "CON" Bill Curtis into drilling them for low water...
Low Water: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nos.../391793077607?
Nose Cone only: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Aluminum-Nos...item238331d849
With this height constant 1.8bar water pressure. Go couple cm higher and drop ro 1.5, up from that gauge needle starts wondering up n down. Lower picture no pressure.