OMC Ficht guru wanted

[vrunner79]

I´m having troubles trying to revive a 1998 150 Ficht Evinrude
no experience with those...
engine fires like timing is offset, it does not start
pickup pump is fine, spark plugs new, replaced flywheel cover, (some other broke it)
spark is good...
owner told me he replaced 3 injectors
no more info about
Any help welcome

[mayflyIII]

if you dont have the software, you can check if all the injectors are firing with a timing light. hook up the red to the hot on the solenoid and the black to the ground etc, then take the sensor and attach it around the blue wire i believe. fire off the engine and then check each injector like that. it may be im wrong, because im thinking about the blue wire on an etec.


if there is a blue wire than thats it and you can check it, because it gets the impuls from the EMM

[PIP]

i think stoker (the pubahh on evilrudes) said to watch out on those fichts till, i think, late 1999 when brp took over. stear clear if 700-800 hours on motor. the ecu is a lot of money on these things and can tend to be the root of many problems.

[vrunner79]

Thanks both, I´m configuring data cable and PC for the EMM reading, but I´m replacing first the crank (flywheel) sensor this evening (Plug & Pray)
spark is erratic, some times big bang, other, small PUFFS..then nothing again
Wish me luck

[vrunner79]

YEP..I´m hooking the timing lamp also...

[17W]

Can You communicate with the ECU?

If you can, what RPM is it spinning over at while cranking? It MUST spin at minimum 200rpm. ****If you see RPM the CPS is good!****

Your system voltage key on should be slightly less than battery voltage, when you spin the engine over they system voltage must increase (generally around 14-15 volts)

If it still tries to light & quits still verify:
1. battery voltage on purple/white to left hand connector to the ignition module
2. system voltage (slightly less than battery voltage) key on to white/green to left hand connector to the ignition module
3. ensure ground in present black wire to left hand connector to ignition module
**if all that is good**
1. hook up spark checker & using a back probe, individually probe all the orange w/different color tracers & touch the opposite end to ground quickly. A single spark event should occur, if not the ignition module is bad.
**if spark doesn't occur most likely the ECU is the issue, but I have seen many times the ECU & ignition module both bad**

Good Luck!

[mayflyIII]

Replaing the crank positioning sensor is probably not the problem, can i deduct that u opened the software and it said CPS FAULT? thats with all the fichts, and it doesnt mean anything, it could be though that your throttle positioning sensor is "sticky" try spraying some 6 in 1 lube between the tps and the top of the intake

[vrunner79]

Did not complete data cable, but I did what you said, checked voltage, and is fine, ECU es working, Ignition module is faulty, looking for used one with some friend dealers down here
found some kind of burning marks inside left connector of it, prior "technician" fried it..
As always, I´m "last resource" but this engine will work again.
In case I get stuck, I will ask for more assistance, have to wait ignition module to arrive


note: left connector is only 3 cables: purple/white, white/green, and black
power pack have 2 other pins (the ones with burn marks) I dont know if there goes another connector, or a pair of cables

Let me know

Thanks

[vrunner79]

Replaing the crank positioning sensor is probably not the problem, can i deduct that u opened the software and it said CPS FAULT? thats with all the fichts, and it doesnt mean anything, it could be though that your throttle positioning sensor is "sticky" try spraying some 6 in 1 lube between the tps and the top of the intake

Yes, after some research and consulting information I have the whole picture about this system, everything is working properly, but powerpack.
Have to find another to replace the fried one..
thanks

[Bill Van Steenwyk]

Try Tom Booth at Riverside Marine in Little Rock, Arkansas. I believe he also has a web site.
He is a rebuilder of all the OMC engines and has been for many years, and sells parts and complete rebuilt engines.