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Thread: What 2 stroke oil yall runnin?

  1. #61
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    ..."The turbo is stock compression for greatest possible combusion chamber volume, but runs 100LL and 1 quart to 4 gal (16:1) because it detonates at 3PSI boost on 93UL."

    Time for an intercooler! Lots of cold water out there to make it work.

    Jeff

  2. #62
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    I am familiar with Klotz and Amsoil but does anyone have any results and experience using Alisyn? I am curious and may try it out soon.

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    Team Member smittythewelder's Avatar
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    For info on gasohol, google "sta-bil white paper".

    Among other things (and generally they are talking about cars), they are saying that the usual E10 and E15 blends do not generally draw much moisture "right out of the air," as is popularly imagined. They certainly will pick up any condensed moisture in the tank. For cars, this used to be thought of as a good thing, with products called "gas-dryers" sold at auto parts stores for just this purpose. The alcohol in gasohol will also tend to loosen up any glop in the tank, and some of this crud will go through a brand new fuel filter. You should be able to use gasohol without further issues if you remove the tank and hard lines from your car or boat and get them steam-cleaned or boiled out in a hot tank and follow this with a rust-remover, rust-converter chemical treatment. With the tank and hard lines back in place, get new soft lines. The alcohol will eventually (several years) start to degrade standard soft lines, causing the inner surface to slough off little chunks. That done, the gasohol should keep your tank from accumulating a lot of new gooey deposits. Chevron is widely considered to have the best additive package to keep stuff clean. If you don't use the vehicle frequently, top up the tank; use Sta-Bil or similar product for long storage, and fogging oil has already been mentioned.

    Even smart guys sometimes forget that pre-mixed 2-stroke oil will settle to the bottom of the tank over time. Shake up that tank. This means shaking up your chainsaw or weedeater that has sat in the shed for a few days, your 2-stroke dirt bike should be rocked back and forth, and so on. Otherwise you might have the common experience of an engine that pukes out a lot of smoke until it gets past the oil-rich layer of fuel in the bottom of the tank, and then siezes on the oil-lean fuel remaining.

  4. #64
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Found this tech article on oil testing by Pennzoil on air cooled engine for wear, carbon deposits, ring scuffing, etc but they also discuss water cooled. Also see discussion at bottom of results.

    http://www.powerchutes.com/oil.pdf

  5. #65
    Team Member Smokin' Joe's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by zul8tr View Post
    Found this tech article on oil testing by Pennzoil on air cooled engine for wear, carbon deposits, ring scuffing, etc but they also discuss water cooled. Also see discussion at bottom of results.

    http://www.powerchutes.com/oil.pdf
    I'm very satisfied with XD-100 synthetic in all our classic OMC motors, 2 & 3 cyl. service and racing, 6000-8000
    RPM. It burns exceptionally clean and lubricates extremely well. no winterization Is needed inside the
    powerhead.

    I have a new experience with gasoline. We have a 1981 Evinrude 15 in Germany, we rebuilt it in 2009. Turns
    6500 RPM so I run XD-100 37:1 or 25:1 with 98 RON non-ethanol gas. Ran perfectly until last week. Started,
    idled and accelerated normally then died wide open. I thought about it, then pulled the fuel filter cover. The
    open space behind the screen was filled with wax! Paraffin. An AOMC colleague with aircraft background says
    that paraffin in gas is a result of incomplete refinement. We generally buy Shell or Total 98 oct. in N. Germany but
    I don't know where that fuel is refined. We ran the 15 for 6 summers several hours each summer, sometimes
    5-8 hrs/summer. After cleaning out the wax the motor runs perfectly again. Very nice outboard, the 1976-ca 1992
    OMC 15 (same is powerhead used in AX racing).

  6. #66
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Smokin' Joe View Post
    I'm very satisfied with XD-100 synthetic in all our classic OMC motors, 2 & 3 cyl. service and racing, 6000-8000
    RPM. It burns exceptionally clean and lubricates extremely well. no winterization Is needed inside the
    powerhead.

    I have a new experience with gasoline. We have a 1981 Evinrude 15 in Germany, we rebuilt it in 2009. Turns
    6500 RPM so I run XD-100 37:1 or 25:1 with 98 RON non-ethanol gas. Ran perfectly until last week. Started,
    idled and accelerated normally then died wide open. I thought about it, then pulled the fuel filter cover. The
    open space behind the screen was filled with wax! Paraffin. An AOMC colleague with aircraft background says
    that paraffin in gas is a result of incomplete refinement. We generally buy Shell or Total 98 oct. in N. Germany but
    I don't know where that fuel is refined. We ran the 15 for 6 summers several hours each summer, sometimes
    5-8 hrs/summer. After cleaning out the wax the motor runs perfectly again. Very nice outboard, the 1976-ca 1992
    OMC 15 (same is powerhead used in AX racing).
    Here is a field test where Amsoil went head to head with XD100 to let Evenrude Etec owners know that it is OK to use Amsoil over XD100. Not supporting Amsoil but the testing is very good support for the XD100 oil. great pic of dissassembled engines using both oils

    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G2968.pdf

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by zul8tr View Post
    Here is a field test where Amsoil went head to head with XD100 to let Evenrude Etec owners know that it is OK to use Amsoil over XD100. Not supporting Amsoil but the testing is very good support for the XD100 oil. great pic of dissassembled engines using both oils

    http://www.amsoil.com/lit/G2968.pdf
    I cant see where it says its BIA TCW-3 certified?

  8. #68
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Powerabout View Post
    I cant see where it says its BIA TCW-3 certified?
    Neither can I. Was just providing a link to info about Amsoil and XD100 that Smokin' Joe uses.


    The xd 100 is designed for oil injection engines like the Etec that uses variable oil ratios depending on the load and rpm. These engines have different settings in the computer for other Rude oils

    Here is the official factory wording on the oil setting issue for the Etec

    "EVINRUDE DIAGNOSTICS OIL TYPE SETTINGS
    Evinrude Diagnostics software provides an option to change the oil type setting for specific models. Use SET OIL TYPE function as follows:

    TC-W3 setting: For operation with all TC-W3 outboard oils including XD30, or XD50 and XD100 and applications [such as commercial or high-performance] requiring maximum lubrication.

    XD100 setting: An optional setting that REQUIRES the exclusive use of XD100 outboard oil. This setting offers reduced oil consumption. It is NOT available on HO models and is not recommended for all applications. Use the XD100 setting for conventional use (runabouts, cruisers) and moderate applications.

    Refer to the correct Operators Guide for details. "

    So is xd100 a TCW3 oil?

    Appears to work for Smokin' Joe

  9. #69
    Team Member Smokin' Joe's Avatar
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    Synthetic oil is generally not TC-W3 and in this case it doesn't matter. XD100, Red Line, and Amsoil
    work just fine, burn cleaner than TC-W3 mineral oils. Rinkers race using Amsoil, an AOMC Johnson
    antique expert runs Amsoil at 64:1 in his antique service and racing outboards with very good results.


    Quote Originally Posted by Powerabout View Post
    I cant see where it says its BIA TCW-3 certified?

  10. #70
    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    What are you using now since rejuvenate has been cancelled?
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin

    Location: SW Orlando, Fl

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