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Thread: Building A looper Beast

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  1. #1
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Post Building A looper Beast

    This thread will be documenting a QUINCY LOOPER “BEAST” reproduction project. It will actually be a hybrid because of changes to the induction side of the engine and ignition system. After looking at a billet of aluminum that had been purchased to make a new 60/66 inch looper block, I realized that it was big enough to build the a SUPER BEAST HYBRID.

    The 15’ Jones really could stand a larger motor and heck, the motor is to short, and does not come to the top of the fairing. So, with that being justified, over the past year and a half I spent hours doing general layout work to confirm that it was something that could really be accomplished. The project has now been committed to and more will follow.
    Last edited by Ron Hill; 04-02-2013 at 11:07 PM.

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    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    This build of a 100 Cubic Inch Looper will be the 4th engine I have spent time designing and the 3rd one that I have built. Each time I have gone thru this exercise, I run into the same problem.
    The first engine was built in the spring of 1970 as an attempt to improve reliability and performance. I sat down with a 4 carb Konig C motor and copied its design, incorporating it into a 6 cylinder, again around a Merc crank,this one from the 850 6 cylinder. This crank was still a 2.125 inch stroke. This gave me more room between cylinders for transfers and remain a 60 cubic in engine. Rotary valves were also built into the crank and the reed blocks were replaced with steel bodies with hardened centers for roller bearings. That's when I learned why some hardened steel parts, like connecting rods, are copper plated. Carbon will not go thru the copper.
    The crank was suspended from the top double row thrust bearing that was locked into the top cap and snap ring grove cut into crank, keeping the clearance controlled between the discs and bodies. The engine was assembled with .010 feelers thru the carb inlet holes on each side of the valve body, then the case was tightened down. Rotary timing also came from the Konig.
    All patterns for casing and the machine work was done by my father and myself. I spent quite a few evenings after work at a small aluminum foundry as free help learning the hows and whys of the casing processes.
    The engine was completed the spring of 1970 and first ran on Mothers Day at Lake Lansing. Its a strange feeling when you add the electricity and the fuel to make it come alive for the first time. Could just be a lot of wasted work and a dud. However it ran. Not the strongest on the first run, but acceptable and we had something left to fine tune.

    It was run a number of times that summer with significant improvements in performance. The last run, resulted in a piston failure and destroyed the engine. Pulling the wrist pin from the bottom of the pin tower. The spinning rod cut the block in two and caught a section of the block strong enough to bend the rod 90 degrees, split the rod crank roller bearings length ways and thankfully sheared the pinion gear at the drive shaft allowing the boat to coast to a stop. I had used the Levendusky pistons, however the wrist pin in the 850 was larger in diameter and thinned the tower to much.
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    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    That last run felt every bit as strong as the 6 looper that I had previously ran in 1967.

    Now, 42 years wiser, I will foolishly attempt another, why, because I can.
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    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    From Mr Austin:

    Because I Am falling behind on keeping this thread active I will skip the progression of the other generations of motors that got me to this point.

    I will say that, each time I have made an attempt, the piston is always the road block. A set of pistons for a 6 cylinder is almost as labor intensive as the block itself. And the reality is that the piston is the most critical part. Each time I am unable to find a piston of sound manufacture that will work or be modified for the design. I will insert a model of a 50ci 6 Cylinder Internal Rotary valve concept that I could not find a piston for.

    For this engine, using the “Direct Charge” piston, which I think was a marketing driven joke to compete with OMC’s Looper, provides enough material, to just remove the heat soaking dam and have a sound flat top piston for a looper. With that problem 90% resolved I have proceeded with the design. The balance of 10% will be to obtain a set of pistons without the boost port hole and top notch. Contacted Wiseco and they said they could provide that piston. When asked about without ring grooves, communications ended. I need to make a trip to Ohio.

    I will attach pics of the piston and resulting layout drawing. Models that confirm the build will follow. I will then move to the drawings of the patterns required for casting of new parts. The molds have been made and the castings produced. All that is need now is machining time.
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    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


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    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    Update:

    The following will be the line drawings and the models of the final version of the cylinder block. The is being machined out of 2024T4 aluminum billet. The down side to the billet is that is not friendly for welding should a mistake be made machining and it is just tougher to machine. I wish that I just made a pattern and cast. One single core box for the cylinder with roughed in ports would have made machining much easier. Will make molds for that next winter. For now, machine the billet.
    700
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    Last edited by Mark75H; 07-12-2012 at 07:53 PM.
    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


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    Sam Cullis Mark75H's Avatar
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    More
    I did not realized that the file name of the attachments would not show up on the site, so I will explain each pic in the text as I move forward.
    The last post is as follows:
    Pics 1&2: Mid case and block porting passages as cores. Cores being the removed material.
    Pic 3: Same coring including water pockets and passages.
    Remaining pics are 3D line drawings and photo rendered pics of the block.

    So what is the real status of the block? The block has been roughed in, which was just a weekends work. I quickly realized that this is foolish without the rest of the required parts. The mid case, the front case and the cylinder heads. So I stopped work on the block to proceed to build patterns for the balance of the required parts.

    As chance would have it, I came across an add on E-Bay for some T2X parts. I acquired a block with a front cover and the 7 main bearing crank. That cut a good year off the making of patterns and modifying a standard crank and bearing bodies to achieve a 7 main crank.

    That left the mid case and the cylinder head patterns to make. A project that could be managed in a couple of months.

    I will include in this segment pics of the roughed block and all the dimensioned drawings for finish machining the block.

    Pics: 1 Exhaust Positions, 2 Head bolt locations, 3 Lower Transfer port position,
    4 Top Transfer port position, 5 Transfer runner positions, 6 Porting angles, 7 Water jacket positions, 8,9,10 Block rough machining.

    I will try to honor Ron's request for more pics. The drawings and pics for producing patterns is many. The mid case is a very involved pattern requiring a cope, drag and 2 cheeks. Easier understood by saying the mold has to pull apart in 4 directions.
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    Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.


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    Quote Originally Posted by R Austin View Post
    why, because I can.


    Curious to if you are using sleeves or having the bores nicasil?

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    Quote Originally Posted by R Austin View Post
    This thread will be documenting a QUINCY LOOPER “BEAST” reproduction project. It will actually be a hybrid because of changes to the induction side of the engine and ignition system. After looking at a billet of aluminum that had been purchased to make a new 60/66 inch looper block, I realized that it was big enough to build the a SUPER BEAST HYBRID.

    The 15’ Jones really could stand a larger motor and heck, the motor is to short, and does not come to the top of the fairing. So, with that being justified, over the past year and a half I spent hours doing general layout work to confirm that it was something that could really be accomplished. The project has now been committed to and more will follow.
    Good Job!

  9. #9
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Running behind again. will add pictures of the finished heads. Added the squish area to the chambers, very small to start, will work on after some running. Cut o-ring grooves in the head surface. Running flanged sleeves does not leave enough room between cylinders for the o-rings Therefore the o-ring is in the head and on the top of the flange. If that does not work I can go to a metal head gasket by re-machineing or replacing the heads.

    Cut the head in half that has been my to size mock up head. Wanted to check the metal around the dual plug holes. Also a picture of the two sets of heads, single plug and dual plug versions. The heads on the right were all sacrificial parts. There appearance is not good because they were not heat treated. A Quincy Looper head is laying on top on one of the test heads. The twin pinion to the left is the unit I will use on this engine.


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  10. #10
    Team Member BJuby's Avatar
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    Can't wait to see the cranktrain installed!

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