Thread: Building A looper Beast

  1. #591
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Had a chance to run the engine again on the repaired dyno. Same size chain with an idler to adjust chain better and used a mill/lathe tool cooling system spraying soul-able oil on the chain for cooling and lubrication. Seemed to work ok chain never even got hot.

    Attached are some videos of the runs. The first run had a fouled plug which you can pick up on by the low foot pound reading. They are listed 1 thru 4. Number 3 was the last run with aviation gas with a 10 to 1 standard 2 cycle oil for pickling the engine. Don"t know when will run again.

    The adjustments to the fuel map worked OK. No adjustments required with the steam wheel. Still seems rich thru 5k but will wait for on water conditions before further adjustments. Power is peaking a 7900/8000 and will require block exhaust work to gain more. Did run up to 8500 without consequences. Think 9500 is doable but will just try to get on the water. SOME WHERE.




  2. #592
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Attached is a YouTube address to 1 of 4 dyno runs from last weekend on you tube. Numbers are out of order. #3 is pickling after run. #1 was clearing gas and oil from last run with a fouled plug as can be seen from the low torque number. Then 2 and 4 being final. Tried making graph of ECU output but screwed that up. Did push to 8500 RPM with torque numbers falling. Fuel map adjustments were good as no steam wheel adjustments were necessary. So, good enough for now. Just need to find someplace to run.



    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V29bTrxFWjk

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nbn7bYZQuak

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SN_azY75vAY

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xvtP_HSonW8

  3. #593
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    Hi Dick

    I was wondering if you are able to get the load cell set up so that you could put it 1' from the shaft centre to enable direct readout?

  4. #594
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    The load sensor is placed as close as possible to the 1 foot rotational point of the pump unit for a direct read in foot pounds. The output needs to be divided by 2 due to the chain ratio between the drive shaft and the pump. I am running a pump that was designed for max of 2500 pounds pressure and 2500 RPM at 3000-3500 pounds pressure and 4250-4500 RPM. Would not survive at a direct drive setup.

    Many things play into the out put number such as atmospheric conditions, oil temperature and internal dyno power lose. Even the pump output pressure hose at 3000 pounds is on the side of the rotation of the pump that resists bending, in fact becomes an solid object that is pushing against the pump robbing force at the load sensor.

    At the end of the day, it does not matter. The engine runs strong, I have adjusted the fuel map closer, and have numbers that are now meaningful as I continue to test. The chain problem appears to be solved with the proper chain and sprocket match-up. I added spray coolant to the chain by using my mill / lathe tool cooling system and a spray fitting threaded into the rear of the chain case and spray with soluble oil solution.

    Put all the boats together and taking to Pentwater, just 15 miles south, to their wood boat show on the 25th. After that I may put back on dyno and do some more fuel map work now that I have discovered my mistake trying to record running parameters from the ACU.

    I am sure given a professional dyno setup all numbers would look different. To me, what I have are working reference numbers. Looking forward to running someplace.
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  5. #595
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    Yes being able to put the engine under load in the shop is a big part of it.

  6. #596
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    Seems that the thread is getting a little stale. So I will add a little material that may not be related to the beast but might still be of interest. The Beast is ready to hit the water next summer, so I have time to work on other projects. One of which repairing the damage to my original Quincy Looper.

    The mid case has been damaged in the past and needed to be replaced and after breaking a ring in Depue a couple years ago I decided to make a replacement part.

    I approached this casting different than the beast. The beast was what is referred to as a cope, drag with two cheeks. This casting is a simple cope and drag with a core for the crank and transfers. This however required a complicated core. I drew the core in the computer and printed out the plastic pieces required to produce the core box. Had those two parts cast . Then I machined and hand polished the interiors for smooth release. Made a sand half to check the dimensions then produced the full one piece core. The bottom end core had to be longer than the center cores. So a block was made to drop in the one end half to shorten to make the end for the center cores. The center cores have different crank lengths on the end which allow making the different center to center cylinder bores by reversing the core. The top of the casting becomes long allowing the use of the same core as the bottom. Just have to cut the top of the casting off. Easier than making a third core for just the top end.


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  7. #597
    Team Member R Austin's Avatar
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    With the completion of the back half of the crankcase and the fact that I had already made the casting for the replacement heads on the Quincy looper, I figured that I might as well make the block also.

    The reality of it is that the block is the easiest pattern to make. With these three patterns only two more are required. The exhaust elbow and the piston. I will reach out to Mark Suter and ask if he still has the pattern for the elbow. I have made the patterns for two pistons. A 50 cubic inch size and a 60/66 size. I just need to test the core boxes for them. Making cast pistons does not scare me as the pistons that we ran back at the time were cast. The material used in the castings today and with heat treating they will be fine.

    Just thinking about the 50 inch motor as an E motor for mod. Pump gas, I guess E85 is pump gas and 85% alcohol. Anyone interested?


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  8. #598
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    whats the yellow material?

  9. #599
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    Amazing work!!!

  10. #600
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    Hi Dick... Sorry I am a late reader of your latest offering in this thread. I am responding to your question on the availability of an original exhaust elbow pattern that will work with your remake of the six cylinder Quincy Looper. I never had any Quincy patterns but I do have the elbow pattern for the Parker Looper which will work on a Quincy motor. The only significant difference in the elbow is that it is designed for use with a sheet metal cone (ILO cast aluminum cone). I am planning to donate my racing engine collection (including the Parker patterns) to the Barber Vintage Motor Sports Museum in the fall of this year so the elbow pattern is still in my possession... if you want to borrow it. Let me know.

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