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Thread: Looking for B quickie gearbox.

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    Default Looking for B quickie gearbox.

    I am 75 years old and used to have a riot with my KG7 on a quickie when I was a kid and now I want to get my grandchildren into hydro's. I recently purchased a KG7 and a quickie towerhousing but need the gearbox and a hydro. I live in Michigan and was wondering if anyone might have something along those lines. Mike at 231-7663453 or rmisch@mail.com

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    Team Member DeanFHobart's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by mmisch View Post
    I am 75 years old and used to have a riot with my KG7 on a quickie when I was a kid and now I want to get my grandchildren into hydro's. I recently purchased a KG7 and a quickie towerhousing but need the gearbox and a hydro. I live in Michigan and was wondering if anyone might have something along those lines. Mike at 231-7663453 or rmisch@mail.com
    Contact Alan VanWeele at 337-304-0379 or David VanWeele at 386-295-3391 or Frank Erion at 269-720-1337. Expect to pay upwards of $1000 for a complete unit. There fellows have everything available. All of the parts except the gear case itself are available brand new…. but they are available used.
    Dean Hobart

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    Team Member zul8tr's Avatar
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    Dean is right on the pricing way up there for the complete gear case, so be prepared for very good gear case maintenance to keep it happy and well. Some tips I use that has kept my 1972 25ss gear case alive with nothing but oil seal changes all these years all else original since bought in 1972. Some use 105 grease in the gear case, I use quality gear oil, have used many like Mercury gear oils and other brands presently using Royal Purple 75w-90 synthetic gear oil. Oil is easier to drain after each use, if seals are in good shape no water gets in the case. For the outer cone bearings I have used the 105 and other greases but found the best with John Deere Corn Head grease, it is not too thick (NLGI #0 with unique properties available at farm supply stores only in pump cartridge). The Corn Head grease allows the GB 98 bearing rollers roll and not slide on the prop shaft that happens if grease too thick like NLGI#2 grease. If gear case you get has the bushed cone with no bearings then no grease, I prefer the bearings in the cone type.

    Also after use I drain the water out of the recess pocket in the tower down where the drive shaft enters the gear case to prevent shaft rust and seal damage while in storage, I follow up with WD 40 in that area and then swab in some Corn Head grease. Get a cone removal tool for maintenance. I do not over tighten the cone factory lists has 100ft-lbs I use 70 and never had an issue loosening up (and also a cone thread saver) and still using the same cone over many hours of race, test and just fun running these days at AOMCI meets.

    If you get a gear case with the drain plug at the bottom (old style typical of KG7, Mark20H with multiple hole water entry) easy to drain oil. The single water entry gear case used on the later quicki models (like my 25ss) have the drain plug up top near the vent plug, I pull my gear case to drain oil to get complete empty.

    Happy running, be safe have good safety equipment on the young ones

    VanWeele Aeroliner link for used parts, scroll down for empty and complete gear cases:

    http://store.aeroliner-boats.com/epa...New%20Parts%22

    Aeroliner Home page:

    http://www.aeroliner-boats.com/index.html

    Frank Erion info:

    fderion@msn.com
    269-720-1337.
    Last edited by zul8tr; 09-11-2022 at 08:09 AM. Reason: added Aeroliner links and Frank Erion email
    " Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin
    " ------- well Doctor what have we got a Republic or Monarchy? A Republic he replies if you can keep it"
    Benjamin Franklin, 1787 Constitutional Convention, as recorded by signer James McHenry's in his diary at the Library of Congress

    Location: SW Orlando, Fl

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