I am not sure what I just bought....
This number is on the block 716358
might be other numbers.
please let me know that I have
More pics if that helps
I am not sure what I just bought....
This number is on the block 716358
might be other numbers.
please let me know that I have
More pics if that helps
71 is a Mark 15 serial number. At one time they were the hot ticket. Probably a Mark 15 power head on a real early marathon lower. The pipe could be for mod, alky or just play.
thank you!!!!!
I got all of this for $150
Good or bad deal?
If you let those spiders on the lower unit bite you, I'd say you got a bad deal, but otherwise, free of bites and as such art is priceless, you got a great deal!
The most expensive part of what you bought is the gear case. Assuming the gears are good complete gear cases are worth up to $1000….. Take the gear case off the tower housing, drain all the oil or grease out and put in new gear oil. Roll the gears over and feel that there is no binding or or ‘catching’. Also remove the rear cone bearing assembly…..rembering the threads for that are left hand threads, so to loosen the cone by turning it clockwise. There are special tools for that you need to get.
The next expensive part is the tower housing…… it is a Q model…. Mercury later came out with what was called the ‘hydro short’ tower housing. All of the interior parts for the gear case are available new…..gears, prop shaft, beatings, seals, water pump parts and rear cone and bearings. The parts for the Bendix magneto might be hard to find. Assuming that you want to turn it back into a stock motor….change the pipe setup to the stock exhaust plates. And discard that ugly steering bar and find a stock chrome one.
Good luck in your venture. Of course you will need to get the rewind parts. But you did get a good deal at $150.
Dean Hobart
Dean is correct on the gear case and tower that have worth. Also the prop is worth prob $50 and the transom clamp assembly has value if the forged alum design not the cast alum design. If you take off the gear case cone using the right tool do it with the complete engine mounted on a stand for better control, repeating Dean's advice to remove turn clockwise viewed from the rear, it might be really stuck? Once removed there is an inner cone piece with bearings or just a bushing sleeve if the older design. If bearings are present they are lubed separate from the lube of the gear case and have their own lube requirements, prop shaft condition very dependent on how well these bearings were maintained.
When you do hand test the gear case pull up on the drive shaft as you rotate it - they are designed with some vertical bearing clearance -you should not feel gears meshing for a good 1st test. If you want to look into the gear case to see gears there is another special tool to pull the water pump cartridge.
It appears you got a good deal at $150
Let us know what inspection reveals
" Three may keep a secret if two of them are dead" Ben Franklin
" ------- well Doctor what have we got a Republic or Monarchy? A Republic he replies if you can keep it"
Benjamin Franklin, 1787 Constitutional Convention, as recorded by signer James McHenry's in his diary at the Library of Congress
Location: SW Orlando, Fl
thank both of you for commenting. Great information and it makes me think that the guy selling wanted to start at $1000. Something told me it was just a negotiating technique and he knew nothing more than me.
I will enlist my dad's help as he raced engines like this in the 50's....but mainly the 30H.
Last night I scrubbed and pressure washed the whole thing. The coated the entire think in a film of oil.
Also....I sprayed some starting fluid in the cylinders and it fired up.
Since my DAD (see my post about him) is 250 miles away....I'll do what I can before getting him involve.
thank both of you for commenting. Great information and it makes me think about the guy selling wanted to start at $1000. Something told me it was just a negotiating technique and he knew nothing more than me.
I will enlist my dad's help as he raced engines like this in the 50's....but mainly the 30H.
Last night I scrubbed and pressure washed the whole thing. The coated the entire think in a film of oil.
Also....I sprayed some starting fluid in the cylinders and it fired up.
Since my Dad is 250 miles away....I'll do what I can before getting him involve.
see this post about him
https://www.boatracingfacts.com/foru...ciation/page20
Pictures
https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/csqqu...z1m5hlz3my8dk9
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