New to me engine...what do I have

[cocacola]

more pics

my son in law has a nice buffing wheel on his grinder....might polish this thing a little once it's up to standard.

[DeanFHobart]

If you are going to run the engine much at all, I would suggest getting a new water pump impeller and get a new needle bearing cone…. They are all available new. Use lots or grease installing them…. I would suggest White Lubriplate #105 or equivalent…. Something for marine applications. The prop shaft is probably OK for minor running….. Polished as you mention…. For display I personally would make it a ‘Green Tank and Rim. You would need the front tank bracket and rear water plate.

[zul8tr]

Looks improved. No lube, interesting.

Yes there are flat hard seals behind those 2 plugs (like the red one that blew out) available at Frank Erion or Aeroliner (or some others) in resources above post. Look at the impellor blade root and see if there are any rubber cracks on each side of the blade root, if cracks no good need to replace. These are available from resources noted previous. There is a seal at the prop shaft in back of the water pump cartridge (last pic) as well as a seal in the pilot at the drive shaft (see pic). These are not a 1st time DIY to replace, there is a puller tool for the water pump cartridge (can be made) for that seal (CR5522). Then with that out remove the drive shaft gear and pull drive shaft out with ball bearing and the pilot as a unit to replace the seal in the pilot. Putting water pump cartridge in correctly requires that you index it before removal.

Does the drive shaft have any up-down play there should be some? Any lateral play, should be none. Does the prop shaft have any in-out play, any lateral play, should be very minor if any in both cases?

To check gear lash pull up on drive shaft and slightly small CW and CCW moves of the prop shaft to feel the lash. Should be perceptible, setting is about 0.004".

All seals are needed to run the engine on a boat to prevent water entry. Also if going to run replace the prop shaft nut with a nylock nut (my preference to a lock washer).

Also The outer cone inner bushing does wear out and if excessive wear it would have to be replaced if going to run on boat (available from references). Would also need water pump impellor if bad as noted testing above.

Will you be getting into the carb to clean, etc?

But if just a display engine just clean it up put in gear oil (75W-80 standard good enough, some use 105 grease) reassemble and make it look pretty buffed out etc.

[cocacola]

thanks Guys!!!!!
You keeping me busy again.
I will get back with answers to questions.

I did not feel any looseness or play in the shaft, but will recheck.

[cocacola]

Not spent too much time on this lately.
Ordered fuel pump kit since it looked terrible.
Cleaned carb and reinstalled.
Threw away old fuel lines and replacing soon.
Going to visit my good friend Tom Williams at Old Camp Joy next week.
Bringing engine for him and son to look at.
Tom has helped me along with friends on this chat in regards to this engine.
Not purchased anything else....maybe saving for the vintage boat plans I bought on eBay years ago.

[cocacola]

I just acquired 6 engines from my dad...All Wizards. I know about some, nothing about others.
https://www.boatracingfacts.com/foru...-coming-my-way

Question:
What engines will fit the Q tower I have?

[cocacola]

If you are going to run the engine much at all, I would suggest getting a new water pump impeller and get a new needle bearing cone…. They are all available new. Use lots or grease installing them…. I would suggest White Lubriplate #105 or equivalent…. Something for marine applications. The prop shaft is probably OK for minor running….. Polished as you mention…. For display I personally would make it a ‘Green Tank and Rim. You would need the front tank bracket and rear water plate.

Hi Dean
Tom Williams says you might be able to assess the value of the engines I recently acquired.
Any help is appreciated.

David