New to me engine...what do I have

[cocacola]

Hi Dean. As you probably know by now...I am good friends with a friend of yours....Tom Williams.

[cocacola]

The most expensive part of what you bought is the gear case. Assuming the gears are good complete gear cases are worth up to $1000….. Take the gear case off the tower housing, drain all the oil or grease out and put in new gear oil. Roll the gears over and feel that there is no binding or or ‘catching’. Also remove the rear cone bearing assembly…..rembering the threads for that are left hand threads, so to loosen the cone by turning it clockwise. There are special tools for that you need to get.
The next expensive part is the tower housing…… it is a Q model…. Mercury later came out with what was called the ‘hydro short’ tower housing. All of the interior parts for the gear case are available new…..gears, prop shaft, beatings, seals, water pump parts and rear cone and bearings. The parts for the Bendix magneto might be hard to find. Assuming that you want to turn it back into a stock motor….change the pipe setup to the stock exhaust plates. And discard that ugly steering bar and find a stock chrome one.

Good luck in your venture. Of course you will need to get the rewind parts. But you did get a good deal at $150.

any leads on a steering bar like you mentioned?

[zul8tr]

Nice pics and great it fired right up. Did you have the gear case in a water barrel to see if it pumps or just a dry start for now? Again you got a great deal!

[cocacola]

Nice pics and great it fired right up. Did you have the gear case in a water barrel to see if it pumps or just a dry start for now? Again you got a great deal!

let me clarify.....not in the water or water bucket.
Just finished cleaning it up and sprayed starting fluid spray into spark plug holes.
Then I pulled rope, it made a firing sound and smoke came out of exhaust.
EXTREMELY BRIEF run.....a second or two.

Lets see how much time I have this weekend....
My guess is fuel pump isn't working.
NOTHING has been opened up (carb and pump).
Who knows how bad the water pump is....my ONLY experience is a 115 inline and 200 V6.

I'll have wife ready with video camera next time

[zul8tr]

From pics were those 2 different J6J and H10 plugs in the engine? Not sure where H10 heat range is relative to J6J which is hottest in the 3/8" reach design. If you plan on barrel running it get new plugs J6J, if you go this way on a race boat at high speed need colder like Champ J4J would be preferred?

[cocacola]

From pics were those 2 different J6J and H10 plugs in the engine? Not sure where H10 heat range is relative to J6J which is hottest in the 3/8" reach design. If you plan on barrel running it get new plugs J6J, if you go this way on a race boat at high speed need colder like Champ J4J would be preferred?

Yes....plugs were not matching.
Thanks for advice....I cleaned them but clearly worn out.
I did spray a LOT of oil in cylinders.
Did not take a compression test, but seemed strong....something else to do this weekend.

[zul8tr]

A compression test with lots of oil in the cylinders will mostly give a high unrealistic psi reading. I do a compression test with residual gas oil mix and get readings and then squirt some oil, rotate crank several times to distribute and compare to not loaded with oil. Results always higher in latter case. I always to it cold at similar ambient temp to eliminate the temp variable and keep track of cold values. Doing compression check over time is important for the relative changes to engine not so much for absolute psi values, but low compression not good, I always use the same gage. For your engine I would think 120 psi and close to that (say 5psi max difference acceptable) in both cylinders is ok. I always keep track of each rope over compression value up to max, should get max in 4 to 5 rope overs, 1st rope over compression tells a lot.

Get new plugs run in a barrel then when cooled do a compression test to see what is there. Report values here. I would use a good TCW3 oil at about 20:1. I use 16:1 in the Merc 25ss with Pennzoil XLF and 87 E free fuel, no carbon issues, 7500 revs, race engines love the revs to keep clean and these Merc oldies with full complement crank journal and wrist pin rollers love oil at the high revs.

[zul8tr]

any leads on a steering bar like you mentioned?

I believe the rear bolt spacing on your block is the same as the Mark 20H if so here is a steering bar they are real nice

https://btmco.com/product/1414-mercury-20-h-assembly/

maybe others can verify on spacing.

[cocacola]

I believe the rear bolt spacing on your block is the same as the Mark 20H if so here is a steering bar they are real nice

https://btmco.com/product/1414-mercury-20-h-assembly/

maybe others can verify on spacing.

Love it!
great price too

[cocacola]

I did not get to the things I wanted to this weekend.
Removed and cleaned up prop.
Also removed flywheel to check out ignition plus is seems like rotating that lever to advance timing was stiff.
Cleaned off old lube and put a thin layer of grease in those areas and reassembled MINUS the cover and flywheel.

Comments on what you see please....