hi
i am looking for alot of v4 john/rude information ,135,140 hp crossflow's, and super stranglers. what modifications can you do to cross flow's. please guys i need your help,
hi
i am looking for alot of v4 john/rude information ,135,140 hp crossflow's, and super stranglers. what modifications can you do to cross flow's. please guys i need your help,
What are you looking to build and accomplish????
you can cut the piston skirts,debur intake track,D shape the ports,raise ports depending on what block you have,use newer ignition,lighter forged pistons,cut heads,open ex housing,carb work with plastic reeds,,,find lightest flywheel,,,,are the main common hit items
run up to 7,200-7,500 and stop,,
Is lap flywheel to crank. If they are not lapped together it will shear half moon key. And also tear up key way slot in crank. And as was said DO NOT SPIN OVER 7500 RPM Dave
Huh, We used to run Remley's at 8 to 8200..........
hi
thank you to all the people who have wrote back to me so far,
i'm using a 78 small jounal block, with super strangler boomerang electrics, lightweight flywheel, carbonfibre reeds, 1 3/8 carburetors, super strangler exhaust, stock crankshaft, stock rods (1 2's) but are sanded on the sides flush, block is bored over 30thou with genuine pistons (not high tops), and chrome rings. it has super strangler heads which is producing about 150- 160 pound commpression, the block has been ported fully, the intakes are MASSIVE (huge) bigger than the genuine super strangler, on the exhasut side the ports are chamfered, it has not been started yet as i am still modifying the water pick up, its has a stock omc gearbox 2:1 with a 22 pitch raker. just like the mercury v6's it has the powerhead studs the long ones under the block (stainless), it has batwing or outrigger steering, johnson v8 300hp dry exhaust, and the gearbox has been drilled like the mod vp's for louder exhaust. the pistons skirts have been cut (XP)
now what else can you do to these engines other than getting superstrangler efi or a mad efi system
thank's
hi thanks you to all the people who have wrote back to me so far
Bigger intake porting is usually NOT something you do to a crossflow racing motor. Increasing intake width and or height usually lowers top end power, giving a little increase if any to the bottom end
If I had a factory racing motor to use as a guide I would have done a little less to the intakes than the factory did on my first try. You can always go back and take off more - but you can't put metal back
Since 1925, about 150 different racing outboards have been made.
does this mean that it will be preety hard to get on the plane but on top speed it is good?
Well, like Sam said, bigger is not always better especially in this motor, it sounds like you have alot of the correct parts.
While making the intakes wider is good, higher isn't, and never touch the outside of the bottom of the intakes. You want to help the intakes, take 2 of the bridges out and don't touch them after that.
Do whatever you can to stuff the crankcase, they like that. Opening the front of the crankcase alot, just hurts it.
We ran 175 to 180 on the compression, I'll be building myself one of these this winter after I finish up the EFI/TIIX project. I have a mint 15ft Allison and I just can't decide which 100 cuber to put on it.
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