Exhaust cover for 20H?

[Schiada]

Here are the photos of the block. It must be a "K" motor.






Thanks of any and all info!! Randy

[Gene East]

The crankshaft and the carb. opening in the crankcase are indicators this is NOT a 20-H.

Very nice looking components however.

Good luck on your rebuild!

[Skoontz]

Not much I can add that hasn't already been said.

Ed is correct, this manifold/stack/deflector (whatever you choose to call it) pre-dates the 20-H.

You'll notice the housing slopes downward to clear the integral fuel tank of the KG-4 and KG-7 Mercurys.

Quincy Welding sold hundreds of these during the early 1950s. More of them were installed on stock fishing motors than were ever fitted on racing motors.

As Bill said, the 2 mounting holes were for a plate that could be easily opened for noise or closed when the game warden or police were around.

All hot rodders remember uncapping "Lake Pipes" on their cars. Same principle!

I like to tell a story about my Dad; George William "Bill" East, concerning these exhaust adaptors.

Dad was deputy marshall in our home town of La Grange, MO, a small town just north of Quincy.

He received a call from an elderly woman complaining about 3 boys in racing boats making a lot of noise on the river and she wanted him to arrest them.

Dad responded with 3 reasons why he couldn't do that.

1. "I have no jurisdiction on the Mississippi River"!

2. "My boat isn't fast enough to catch them"!

3. "One of those boys is my son"!

Gene, do you remmebr the Lake pipes with the covers on low tension springs, so when you goose the motor, the cap opened, then clsoed at the lights for when the cops were around? Add steel pack mufflers and you were styling on a '50 Merc....

[Gene East]

Yeah,

I had a '50 Ford instead of a Mercury.

It was somewhere between pink and purple.

Man, I loved that car!

[A/B Speedliner]

The lower bearing carrier is that of a KG7, the 20H were straight across the front and a rounded triangle and there is no stripe cast into the starboard side of the cylinders on the outside of the block.
David

[Schiada]

After looking a the parts list list,my reed block has no bearing. So,KG7?

[Gene East]

Yes!

That was my point in referring to the crankshaft.

A/B Speedliner also made interesting observations in his post ruling out 20-H.

Basically the cylinders could be reworked to near 20-H specs, but the crank is totally different.

You have excellent components to build a KG-7!

[Aeroliner]

Is this a small rod engine. If you post a photo of the rods we might be able to identify it better. There were also KF-7 engines that looked fairly much the same. Rods are a good indicator.

Alan

[Gene East]

Didn't the KF models have fewer reeds and a smaller carb??

[Bill Van Steenwyk]

Don't know about the KF Models, but the Wizard Super 10 (if they were similar) sold by Western Auto during this time frame had a four reed center main (the reed cage just did not have four of the holes drilled or machined in the cage, don't remember now whether they were front or back) and a smaller carb, or at least different, as we refitted another carb that was the same as the KG7 to bring it to Merc spec plus using an 8 reed center main to allow it to run with the KG7 in the B Family Runabout class I started in in the mid 50's. The advantage to using the Wizard was even with the required parts change out to bring it to Merc spec, it was still less expensive than the equivalent Merc, and to help a poor boy along, Western Auto offered a credit plan directly with the Company.

I seem to remember the crank was also much "beefier" (although that was a long time ago) than the one shown in the photo's in this thread, and the reed block had roller bearings on the center main. The intake port covers on the Wizard did not have a "deflector" made into them as the Merc's did either, but that was easily fixed by using the Merc equivalent.