I haven't checked on the power tech props yet. Looking for a Yamaha style semi cleaver or drag to try and see what happens. Haven't tried a chopper prop either. Figured I needed something with a little more stern lift and maybe a smaller
Diameter for faster spin up but I don't know if such a wheel exists.
I'm not sure if they do but you can take it to someone and have the pitch changed but I was told the pitch would only be changed at the tips of the blades, to truly change the pitch the blades would have to be cut off then rewelded back on to give you that true pitch, I am going by only what i have heard.
Man I'd hate to take a brand new cast prop and cut the blades of and somebody re-weld em!! I've got a Miller TIG but I'd be afraid to try that! Figure a Yamaha style semi cleaver would keep my stern lifted and reduce the bounce while I trimmed but I'm a newbie and haven't tried but bow lifters
Put a straight edge on the bottom your boat and you can see if you have any hooks and rockers instead of pouring money into props
if you hqave a tog welder you could make an awsome jack plate for your boat.
Plus if the BRP racker prop could be changed by a good prop man to get you more pitch and less diameter easy.
I have a post going about the props being cut down etc and have heard about a few who have had success with it.
I know a few people with rakers and they love em, many say they are pretty fast props and get the boats realy
moving once spinning.
If you are hitting 40mph with an 18 inch pitch then the engine is doing good and must be over revving.
it has toi be around 6200 plus to get that speed from your gear ratio, so maybe a little tweak on the prop by one of the prop men could make it a touch quicker as well.
i think like chris3298 says, you need to look under the boat and check a few things before getting another prop.
once you know exactly what your dealing with then check out ron hill's props and let him know what your boat
does and what you want from it.
many many people on here and other forums love his props and say they have worked realy good for them .
phill
You really don't even need a tig welder to build a jack plate all it if is some angle aluminum and some bolts.
if you dont have a few butt welds inside the corners then alloy angle will break.
go look on the net and see how many high price jack plates and set backs have snapped !!!!!!
quite a few of the hefty priced bobs jack plates have been broken,some on the welds and some on the corners.
A few bits of weld would make it more rigid and definitely stronger and safer.
I always like a bit of over kill to be safe ha ha .
[I]I myself need a jack plate,ill experiment with heavy steel angle at first (thats all ive got at present) then once
i have what i want, i would like it made in either stainless or alloy with a few strength welded bits inside it.
then i might see an extra 3 or 4 mph maybe ?[/I]
but if the holeshot suffers too much ill be back down again ha ha
phill
Let it all Hang out
That jack plate must cost under $50 to break, I don't think that a 60 will ever break a 3/8in aluminum jack plate. I wouldn't touch it with a welder either. I'm not sure if aluminum can be heat treated like steel but when you go welding on something like that, you can mess with its strength.
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